Northwest Dive Club

John Rawlings wrote:but so very many kind and decent people went out of their way to ask me to stay and remain a part of the NWDC family...

If that's how you took my "Now get the F*&k out" remark, then yeah, totally. >0]

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Not Stolen.

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Or you follow your training that tells you to always have your reg in your mouth when entering or leaving the water.

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There is a raging jealousy growing in me as of this moment...

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Lobster Shop - 10ft.

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I've got a Bare D6. It's got some leakage in the arm that needs to be sealed up, but served me very well.

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cofford wrote:Well, crap. It was bound to happen sometime. I left a rigged stage bottle and regulator on the beach at Cove 2. Please let me know if you've found one nearby and I'll provide identifying details.

Stroke.

I agree with Jake, get an old Gavin (HDPE tail) for 1-1500, and buy a speed controller and batteries to wire it all up the way you want it. cofford did that on here, and would be a great resource. I have a Sierra that at some point I plan on pimping out, but I've got to get another scooter first (Pe...

Cotton.

http://www.wheelhousedesigns.com/

Both fuel line or camelback tubing will work. What makes the decision is how you route. My tube comes straight up from my valve and I point my catheter tip straight up. From there I just run about 20" of line going straight up doing a u-turn back to my catheter. If you do a loop type of route ...

I believe it's just fuel line, which you can pick up at any autoshop.

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Halcyon and Oxycheq are two great P-valves. Lighthouse for the blind for Catheters. Those are my recommendations. Balanced or unbalanced is up to you.

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I'm Welsh. I've only got one sheep, but when you try to push her off a cliff she backs up niiiiice and steady like.

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Take a look at this: http://www.designspark.com/page/designspark-pcb-home-page I used to frequent this place for some of my designs. There are some places you can go and print up 10 boards for cheap, and source your own parts to solder. I think they've advanced and dropped cost on some of these serv...

This was an example that they are out there, but yeah. You could build your own driver and send it to china to get cut and soldered. Wouldn't cost much overall if you had good light sales.

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Like so: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.s020073

Not sure what your voltage requirements are (lion, Lipo, fe, what have you).

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Nwbrewer wrote:

defied wrote: Hell, there may already be one or twelve in existence one could buy.

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The only dive light I'm aware of that does something like is the Dive X light, if it ever become available.

I was just thinking of a driver in general, as it's a home made dive light.

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We've covered that. What I am saying is that a driver could be designed to lower power output once a voltage is reached that is above the cutoff range of the LiPo in order to alert the diver that the light is getting close to being done. Hell, there may already be one or twelve in existence one coul...

So because HID's cut out, we should keep it that way with LED's?

Thanks for the how-to lessons and history of diving and electronics. 0]

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Hey bub,
I got certified at your age. You're gonna love it!

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Tom Nic wrote:

defied wrote: It's dirty. Like hooker in a dark, stinky alley dirty. And it will melt faces.

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Which is what lights are for, as we all know! :luv:

Yeah booey! It'll sterilize too! All for 40 easy payments of 19.99!

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I like my 55 Watts because @%*! you" HID. It's dirty. Like hooker in a dark, stinky alley dirty. And it will melt faces.

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We all know Spatty will win this one.

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kdupreez wrote:none of the current HID lights warn you AFAIK? they just cut out.

This is HID? I thought it was LED. If it's LED, I believe they all go direct drive (or simulated) at a certain voltage. Couldn't hurt anyways.

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Oh no, not you!

Hey sport, welcome.

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