Northwest Dive Club

After having been mostly out of the water for over a year I have been in the process of getting our gear all tuned back up and ready to go.

Some of it is in shockingly bad shape. I have several tanks out of hydro so I was stripping them down to take them to a local shop to have done. I have not looked inside the singles, as there is no point at this time. I was stripping down 2 sets of doubles, since the shop (not scuba, none local) will not do doubles. Pulling the valves one set I had a fair amount of rust around the neck on one, and the other had green corrosion on dip tube.

So I was hoping to get them all in the shop and done this week, but not looking that way. I was hoping to be able to rebuild the valves myself, but the plugs I got for the doubles, apparently don't fit.

Anyone have a rough cost of what it currently costs to have a set of doubles, hydro, VIS, and rebuilt? On the one set I don't mind paying, but the other is a set I don't use, and was planning on selling. But if the cost of service costs as much or more then I can sell them for might not be worth it.

Thanks.

Between $100-$150 for a set of doubles at most shops I'd say

Thanks. I will be making calls tomorrow. Then just a matter of figuring out how to get them there.

Just to add to the rant as I was doing an overhaul on my camera housing I have 2 parts that are stuck. Went to order replacements, well they are "factory only" so now I have to send that out.

Getting back into this is going to be costly. Worth it, but was hoping it was going to go a little smoother.

Manifold plugs only come in a few types/styles:
OMS cap type
Dive-rite/Halcyon/Sea-Elite/Thermo plug type.

I am not sure about Blue Steel as I refuse to own those stupid things lol.

What type of manifold do you have?

Where you getting fills? Green dip tubes are a big concern.

Well apparently the plugs I got were course thread not fine, go figure. Plus the Sherwood set does not even work that way...... apparently.

I am just loading them all up and taking them over to Tacoma Scuba (need to call them tomorrow) and letting them service everything. I am frustrated and don't have time right now, so will have to pony up the cash.

I have 1 Sherwood and 2 Blue Steel (of course), they were a cheep way to try out doubles.

We have our own dive compressor for the County. But I could have easily picked up water during transfilling from my HP to my LP-72's. Was just odd that only one of them had green.

The most common source of water is actually from the DIN valve itself - always remember to blow out the valve before hooking up the whip no matter how dry it might appear to be. 1 drop of salt water can do a surprising amount of corroding. On all steel tanks, the area just outside the Oring sealing surface on the neck will always rust. That galvanizing is the first to go via dissimilar metal contact. Its not a big deal and never seems to progress down the outside of the neck.

I forgot about Sherwoods, I actually have 2 that I'm struggling to find burst disks for. :(

Best thing you can do is standardize on valves. The dive-rites and thermos take all the same parts except the bonnet nuts. Even though I have a lot of thermos the diverites are nicer as they have oring sealed bonnet nuts while the thermos have a crush washer which has to be replaced every time you open it. I replace the diverite's bonnet nut washers too but they are a lot cheaper at McMaster than crush washers from thermo.

Thanks for all the info. Well getting standard should be pretty easy. Dumping the set of double 100's with the sherwood and keeping the 2 sets of double 72's with Blue Steel.

Wife will never be diving doubles. I like the 72's because they are about the same weight as a single HP-130, and I have redundancy.

At $39 each these are a steal
https://www.divegearexpress.com/valves

CaptnJack wrote:The most common source of water is actually from the DIN valve itself

I think I disagree. Before I got my compressor my steel tanks would have all kinds of rust in them every year from various dive shops. I opened the valve briefly to blow out any water before they filled them. Once I got my compressor squared away I had no more rust on the insides for over 10 years!

Which shop were you using? Some are definitely worse than others