DIY thread

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vlad
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Re: DIY thread

Post by vlad »

Nwbrewer wrote:Nice work Vlad, what reflector and driver did you wind up with?
Thanks!

Here is the reflector
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/53mm-30mm- ... ters-18841

and the driver
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/12v-sst-90 ... ghts-50026

I also tried a few SSC-P7 reflectors and some other plastic ones. The XR-E was the best that I could use. Actually, the best was this one
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/sst-90-smo ... eter-47996

but I couldn't find anything to fit it into. I'd also try one for SST-50 if DealExtream wouldn't mess up the part number and sent me the wrong one. :angry:
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Dusty2
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Dusty2 »

For those that might be interested My pretty blue light posted here earlier was sold to a doctor/cave diver in Main who took it on a deep cave tri mix class in florida. I just got a call from him yesterday and everyone loved it. They did 4 deep dives from 200 to 250feet with deco's on the same charge and it stayed completely dry and performed perfectly.

:joshsmith: :joshsmith: :joshsmith: :joshsmith:
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Linedog
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Linedog »

That's great news Rich, after using your SL4/6 LED mod I knew your other lights would be awesome.
Chris
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vlad
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Re: DIY thread

Post by vlad »

Woohoo! Great work, Dusty!
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airsix
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Re: DIY thread

Post by airsix »

Just posted a new thread about an easy way I found to make DIY custom-length hoses.

DIY custom hoses
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H20doctor
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Re: DIY thread

Post by H20doctor »

I made a DIY travel case for my Xscooter... total cost 65.00 ..




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NWDC Rule #2 Pictures Or it didn't Happen
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sitkadiver
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Re: DIY thread

Post by sitkadiver »

Good idea, should make it across the country just fine.


Now, where's my new light??? :joshsmith: And when do you get back so you can fix my other lights???? :smt064 :smt064

Seriously though, have a fun and safe trip.
I do not believe in taking unnecesary risks, but a life without risk is not worth living.
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Nwbrewer
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Sidemount Wing

Post by Nwbrewer »

This post is intended to be educational only. If you try something similar and your wing fails and you die, it's not my fault. Also, please spare me any comments about how this is going to kill me unless they are pointing out a specific design fault. Thanks.

With that out of the way, I decided to make myself a new sidemount wing. My first one was kind of a knock off of the MSR bag style, my second one was more like the one UTD sells. It worked fine, but didn't have enough lift for steel 100's. So I decided to make myself a new one that would give me enough lift for some steels.

For the material, I used some 430 denier Heat sealable packcloth from Seattle Fabrics. I used this stuff for my previous two BC's, and for some SMB's that I've made. http://www.seattlefabrics.com/nylons.ht ... 0packcloth
I got the grommets, webbing and bungee from the same place.

Start with a piece of cardboard a little bigger then the wing you want to make. Failing that, start taping pieces together until they are big enough.
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Draw the outline, and cut out the template.
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Fit the template to the wing to see how it’s going to look.
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This is my old wing layed on top of the new one. The outline is only a little bigger, but the old one is pinched in the middle, making a donut type wing. The new one will not have that, it will use baffles to shape the wing.
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Transfer the template to the fabric using 1” tape and a fabric pencil. This gives the 1” extra that will be used to heat seal around the shape.
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Once that is done, cut out the fabric.
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Save any scraps of fabric for testing.
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Turn the fabric cut out over onto the main sheet of fabric so that the outsides are facing each other. Trace around the cut out with a fabric pencil and cut out the shape.
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Take some of the scraps, and practice sealing them together. The iron can’t be too hot, or it will melt the fabric, and it can’t be too cool, or it won’t give a good bond. It takes a bit to get the right heat setting. Pressure is also really helpful. Parchment paper can be used as a heat shield for the parts you don’t want stuck together.
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Try the toddler test to be sure you got a good bond.
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Now mark a centerline on the inside of both sides.
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Cut some strips from the cut out scraps to make baffles. (Mine were 7”, 4” would have been better)
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Use parchment paper as a heat shield and bond the strips next to the centerline mark.
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Position the other side carefully, and again using parchment paper bond the baffles on the side of the centerline.
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You’re now ready to seal the edges. Lay the wing flat and keep the edges even. Leave the bottom edge open for now.
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Use the heat setting determined earlier and good steady pressure. You may need to go over the edges several times.
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Reach in through the unsealed bottom edge, and feel around for any place where the bond wasn’t even. Fix these by going over them with the iron again.
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Any places that will get a grommet need to get reinforced with webbing. Cut some webbing strips, heat seal them with a lighter, then stitch them to the wing.
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Add grommets where needed.
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Where the dump valve and elbow will be fitted to the wing rubber washers need to be added. I cut 2 disks from 1/16” gasket material. Glue them to the wing with E6000 or other similar adhesive.
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Add some weight and let the adhesive dry.
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When dry, insert a piece of wood through the open bottom of the wing. Use a 1” punch to make the hole. (Used a sharpened 1” pipe coupling) The bladder nut helps get it centered.
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Add the bladder fittings
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At this point seal the bottom edge that was left open earlier. Hook up the inflator and dump valve, and inflate to look for any areas on the bottom edge that did not get properly sealed. Seal any problem areas and add the needed webbing and grommet.
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Fit the wing to the harness.
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I dove the wing and it worked quite well, but it was pretty dark, so none of the video shows the results too well. When I get some good daylight video I’ll post it. Only thing I would change right now is noted above that I made my baffles too long, so it can puff up a bit too much in the center. I’ll have to figure out a way to fix that.
"Screw "annual" service,... I get them serviced when they break." - CaptnJack (paraphrased)


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Jeff Pack
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Jeff Pack »

Impressive.
=============================================

- I got a good squirt in my mouth
- I would imagine that there would be a large amount of involuntary gagging
- I don't know about you but I'm not into swallowing it

CCR discussion on Caustic Cocktails.
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H20doctor
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Re: DIY thread

Post by H20doctor »

Good job jake!!! Now build me one..
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Nwbrewer
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Nwbrewer »

After watching CMJStealth's video light setup, I decided that it was something worth trying out. This is more "proof of concept" than anything else. I'll post some video when I try it out.

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"Screw "annual" service,... I get them serviced when they break." - CaptnJack (paraphrased)


"you do realize you're supposed to mix the :koolaid: with water and drink it, not snort the powder directly from the packet, right? :smt064 " - Spatman
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Dusty2
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Dusty2 »

Hey I'm branching out! :angelblue:

In addition to putting my light head on several HID canister lights lately one of my friends that is a commercial diver need a low voltage umbilical light source so we got together and WA-LA! A Kirby Morgan umbilical setup hooked to a 170' umbilical shore power setup.

Puts out more light than his 120v 110watt halogen and is allot safer than diving with 120v. :angelblue:
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SeanKylgod
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Re: DIY thread

Post by SeanKylgod »

+1. this is fuggin' brilliant
Nwbrewer wrote:I do believe this thread has been dead too long.

My wetgloves have been slowly deteriorating, and are no longer keeping my hands as warm as they once were. Since I'm rocking my sweet NeoZ drysuit, I figured why not make some drygloves? Total cost was about $20. I may spend a little more and upgrade my liners, my hands got a little cold tonight, but the were dry!

DIY Dry Gloves and Rings.

DIY Dry gloves and ring are a fairly easy DIY project, requiring fairly few tools.

Step 1 – Acquire the necessary parts:
- 3” PVC coupling
- 4” diameter vacuum cleaner belts
- Rubber or Vinyl gloves
- Glove liners
- Contact cement

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Step 2 – Mark the 3” PVC coupling and cut it in half. I used a 10” chop saw, but it could be done by hand if you’re careful.


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Step 3 – I used a router to cut a grove, closer to one end. This will be where the vacuum cleaner belt will sit to hold everything together. This step can be done with a dremmel or just a file. I then sanded both pieces thoroughly to make sure that all surfaces were smooth so that nothing will snag on the latex seals on the suit.

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Step 4 – Prepare the gloves. The inner surface of the gloves I bought was lined with some sort of fabric. Since this probably wouldn’t seal very well, I folded the gloves back on themselves, and applied a line of contact cement at the fold, and at the edge. Then fold the two together, to have the outside folded in permanently.

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It’s a good idea at this point to make sure that every thing goes together. I assembled the gloves on the rings to make sure everything fits. Slide the glove over the ring, then slide the vacuum cleaner belt over the top to hold it in place.

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Step 5 – Place the ring in the suit. The directions I was working from recommended going from inside the suit with the ring, but I found if worked better to just use a lot of talc and work the rings in from the open end. Make sure the end with the grove goes in towards the suit. I left mine so that the seal is still in place around my wrist. This way if the gloves leak the suit won’t flood.

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Step 6 - Stretch the glove over the ring and latex seal. Then stretch the vacuum cleaner belts over the top of the gloves. You’re now ready to dive. Don the liner first, and put on the suit.

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Step 7 – Go diving! Enjoy dexterity and dry hands!

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I did wind up swapping out the awesome orange kitchen gloves that I originally tried, since they didn't have much room in them for thicker insulation, but even those kept me dry for the dive I did in them. I used exactly the same procedure and switched out to Smurf gloves. Right now the only thing I don't like is having them always attached to the suit makes dealing with my neck seal a PITA.

Tonights dive was 40 minutes, dry hands!

Jake
.
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Nwbrewer
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Nwbrewer »

SeanKylgod wrote:+1. this is fuggin' brilliant
Thanks. Still using them, and after I don't know how many dives, the only leaks I've had have been 2 torn gloves, and once where I pulled the elastic from my undergarment under the seal. If you try it,don't use the vacuum cleaner belts, that was a PITA, just round o-rings and a second groove works best.

Also, Harbor Freight sandblasting gloves are the BEST for this type of system. (they work in regular dryglove systems also.)
"Screw "annual" service,... I get them serviced when they break." - CaptnJack (paraphrased)


"you do realize you're supposed to mix the :koolaid: with water and drink it, not snort the powder directly from the packet, right? :smt064 " - Spatman
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Novice
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Novice »

I just saw this and thought it was sweet too. So is your current set up using two groves and two o rings? What size o rings? How to do you don? I am impressed seeing as dry gloves cost $180.
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Norris
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Norris »

Nwbrewer wrote:
SeanKylgod wrote:+1. this is fuggin' brilliant
Thanks. Still using them, and after I don't know how many dives, the only leaks I've had have been 2 torn gloves, and once where I pulled the elastic from my undergarment under the seal. If you try it,don't use the vacuum cleaner belts, that was a PITA, just round o-rings and a second groove works best.

Also, Harbor Freight sandblasting gloves are the BEST for this type of system. (they work in regular dryglove systems also.)
Ha ha Jake clever hiding of the brand name. I have been rocking this system for well over two hundred dives and LOVE IT! The Best gloves at work n more on Broadway are in the back so you have to have someone go and find them.
**Pinch it, don't stick your finger through. You're just pinching a bigger hole.
CAPTNJACK - 2012**
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Nwbrewer »

Norris wrote:
Nwbrewer wrote:
SeanKylgod wrote:+1. this is fuggin' brilliant
Thanks. Still using them, and after I don't know how many dives, the only leaks I've had have been 2 torn gloves, and once where I pulled the elastic from my undergarment under the seal. If you try it,don't use the vacuum cleaner belts, that was a PITA, just round o-rings and a second groove works best.

Also, Harbor Freight sandblasting gloves are the BEST for this type of system. (they work in regular dryglove systems also.)
Ha ha Jake clever hiding of the brand name. I have been rocking this system for well over two hundred dives and LOVE IT! The Best gloves at work n more on Broadway are in the back so you have to have someone go and find them.
I'm not hiding anything, I didn't know it, I just go to HF and buy them. Are they cheaper a work n' more? I know wht same ones are made in white and orange, I'd live to have some orange ones.

What I use now is version 3.0, it's glued to the suit on one side and has a groove that a 3.16 o-ring drops into to secure the glove. If you size the o-ring right, you just pull on the glove, then pull the o-ring on over it into the ring (use a low durometer o-rings that are stretchy)
"Screw "annual" service,... I get them serviced when they break." - CaptnJack (paraphrased)


"you do realize you're supposed to mix the :koolaid: with water and drink it, not snort the powder directly from the packet, right? :smt064 " - Spatman
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Norris
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Norris »

Nwbrewer wrote:
Norris wrote:
Nwbrewer wrote:
SeanKylgod wrote:+1. this is fuggin' brilliant
Thanks. Still using them, and after I don't know how many dives, the only leaks I've had have been 2 torn gloves, and once where I pulled the elastic from my undergarment under the seal. If you try it,don't use the vacuum cleaner belts, that was a PITA, just round o-rings and a second groove works best.

Also, Harbor Freight sandblasting gloves are the BEST for this type of system. (they work in regular dryglove systems also.)
Ha ha Jake clever hiding of the brand name. I have been rocking this system for well over two hundred dives and LOVE IT! The Best gloves at work n more on Broadway are in the back so you have to have someone go and find them.
I'm not hiding anything, I didn't know it, I just go to HF and buy them. Are they cheaper a work n' more? I know wht same ones are made in white and orange, I'd live to have some orange ones.

What I use now is version 3.0, it's glued to the suit on one side and has a groove that a 3.16 o-ring drops into to secure the glove. If you size the o-ring right, you just pull on the glove, then pull the o-ring on over it into the ring (use a low durometer o-rings that are stretchy)
Ha ha naw I thought you were just being clever. The gloves I use are brandnamed "Best". These are a little thicker than the first gloves I used with this setup and much more durable. Version 3.0 huh? I'm intrigued...oh and they are like 8.00 a pair.

They are here

http://www.showabestglove.com/site/prod ... x?style=55
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SeanKylgod
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Re: DIY thread

Post by SeanKylgod »

I'll have to go pick up a few pair from HF when I head into civilization =P

Do you think there is a possibility of this system working with my neoprene wrist seals? I REALLY don't wanna drop $180 on the BARE or SiTech system.. just seems like such a waste for a handful of plumbing parts =P
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SeanKylgod
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Re: DIY thread

Post by SeanKylgod »

waitttt. was the vacuum belt (flat one) used as a bracelet after the suit was donned?
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Norris
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Norris »

SeanKylgod wrote:I'll have to go pick up a few pair from HF when I head into civilization =P

Do you think there is a possibility of this system working with my neoprene wrist seals? I REALLY don't wanna drop $180 on the BARE or SiTech system.. just seems like such a waste for a handful of plumbing parts =P
I dont think this will work with neoprene wrist seals
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Nwbrewer
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Re: DIY thread

Post by Nwbrewer »

SeanKylgod wrote:waitttt. was the vacuum belt (flat one) used as a bracelet after the suit was donned?
It was on version 1.0, but not anymore.d I'll take some pictures later today of V3.0

Are your neo seals the kind that fold under to make the seal? If so best to just cut them off and glue the ring to the suit.
"Screw "annual" service,... I get them serviced when they break." - CaptnJack (paraphrased)


"you do realize you're supposed to mix the :koolaid: with water and drink it, not snort the powder directly from the packet, right? :smt064 " - Spatman
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SeanKylgod
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Re: DIY thread

Post by SeanKylgod »

I've decided that my BARE isn't getting the dry glove system, my Apollo is. I made the rings out of the same couplers you did except mine are black schedule 40, I did use the tubular vacuum cleaner belts (for a hoover) because nobody under the sun had o-rings that big.. im curious now as to how far down to put the coupler inside of the seal because its the kind that are super long and roll back into themselves so your wrist is shielded with the neoprene cuff and if the gloves were fixed on the seal, how would i push my hand through enough to get my hand past the seal? I hope this makes sense... I'll post pics of my progress so far and if you've ever seen an Apollo suit, you know what I'm talking about.

OH! and I found Atlas 660's, however found gloves that were actually a bit thicker and had a much better fit. I'll post pics of those soon as well.

*no, they aren't the fold in type, but if they were, what glue would adhere neoprene to PVC? I may fall in love with dry hands and do this to ALL of my suits, so best to ask now haha
Nwbrewer wrote:
SeanKylgod wrote:waitttt. was the vacuum belt (flat one) used as a bracelet after the suit was donned?
It was on version 1.0, but not anymore.d I'll take some pictures later today of V3.0

Are your neo seals the kind that fold under to make the seal? If so best to just cut them off and glue the ring to the suit.
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SeanKylgod
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Re: DIY thread

Post by SeanKylgod »

Vacuum belt X4 from vacuum store @ 1.99 each = ~$10.00
Sch. 40 PVC couplers X2 from lowes @ 1.69 each = $4.00
Pair PVC dipped gloves @ home depot @4.99each= $5.00
Pair of cotton whatever black gloves from $ store= $1.00 (who saw that coming??)

Dry glove system for $20? ohhhhh yeah.

The cheapest dry glove setup I've seen wasn't even the twist lock style that BARE makes, it was identical to what we're making and it was $150 at my LDS.

"Hey, J**.. do you know anyone that dives these?"

*I hold up the gloves so he can see what I'm talking about*

"yeah, I have a set on two of my suits. I love those things!"

*snickers to self*


NWbrewer; I salute you :notworthy:
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finished-ish product
finished-ish product
Still ugly and rough before I went to a higher grit, but checking to see how the rings fit into the channels
Still ugly and rough before I went to a higher grit, but checking to see how the rings fit into the channels
I bought two couplers and made mine a little bit longer for a bit of extra "whoops" room
I bought two couplers and made mine a little bit longer for a bit of extra "whoops" room
hand saw. drill with a circular carbide bit on it, a steady hand and tons of patience.. * I now want a router table* FYI, yes I did sand this all clean and smooth afterwards so as to not tear a seal
hand saw. drill with a circular carbide bit on it, a steady hand and tons of patience.. * I now want a router table* FYI, yes I did sand this all clean and smooth afterwards so as to not tear a seal
these belts were $5 each at Sears, but I said poo on that and went a block away to a vacuum store and found  them for $1.99 each. (this is just in case someone needs a part #)
these belts were $5 each at Sears, but I said poo on that and went a block away to a vacuum store and found them for $1.99 each. (this is just in case someone needs a part #)
these are the gloves I was talking about. Yes, I should have got XL, but they work just fine with the liners I'm using.
these are the gloves I was talking about. Yes, I should have got XL, but they work just fine with the liners I'm using.
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AquaticEngineer
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Re: DIY thread

Post by AquaticEngineer »

Where are you guys getting the water tight canisters for housing the batteries in?
Dusty2 wrote:
Dusty2 wrote:I just finished my latest light and pressured tested it to 300 feet. Happy to say not a drop of water anywhere except on the outside. :taco: :taco:
This light and one other (in black of course) are headed for advanced tri-mix deep cave dives this week. Hopefully I'll have some good reports back by the first of the month!
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