LED Upgrades for UKSL4, Scout, Photon Torpedo

[Nwbrewer]

Don't know if anybody else noticed this, but this guy is selling Cree R2 LED drop in replacements for $30. Pretty cheap upgrade if you have an old Scout or PT with the Halogen bulb laying around.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/spo/1387912281.html

[defied]

I bought a converted SL6 from this guy. For $55.00, I consider this to be a very good deal.

D(B)

[Nwbrewer]

defied, is he making those reflectors? Or did he source them somewhere?

[LCF]

I was just saying last night that I wish I knew where I could get a module without having to buy an entire light -- thanks for spotting this.

[Nwbrewer]

I was just saying last night that I wish I knew where I could get a module without having to buy an entire light -- thanks for spotting this.

Lynne are you looking to put this in one of the 2 cell lights?

[defied]

He is not making the reflectors. The entire module comes as one piece, and has it's own driver, and reflector built in to it.

The only issue is that these come from Hong Kong, and are not special order, so the diode is soldered in the wrong way for these lights.
What this means it that on the 6 cell version anyways, I have to install the batteries in backwards. This is the same for the Scout.

Also, be informed that these modules are a scootch smaller than the scout/uk housing, and Jim adds a pvc spacer, and a copper top hat for the circuit to be completed. It works, but it's not super professional.

In the mean time, I am trying to find a supplier who will flip the diode around, so you can turn it off and on with the original switch configuration, and possibly get a resizing of the reflector/diode, so I don't have to spin some more quality spacers.

D(B)

[Nwbrewer]

Ok, then this is the same as what I made, just with a much better spacer (I don't have a lathe). If you source somebody to make those reflectors, please let me know. In Scout/PT lights having it wired backward isn't a big deal, just throw the batteries in backward.

[defied]

Ok, then this is the same as what I made, just with a much better spacer (I don't have a lathe). If you source somebody to make those reflectors, please let me know. In Scout/PT lights having it wired backward isn't a big deal, just throw the batteries in backward.

Right, but in the UK's the switch has a copper "Ring" around the on off switch, so throwing in the batteries backwards makes the negative contact the ring, and be in an always on configuration. On mine, I have to twist the head like a scout to turn it off. 0]
It's funny.

I will keep you updated, and no, Jims heads are using a ring of PVC plumbers tubing cut to act as a skirt, and a big piece of plumbing copper (A tophat) to ensure the circuit is completed, and the diode lights up. It works, but it ain't purty.

D(B)

[Nwbrewer]

That's too bad, a pretty one would be so easy. I'll make a drawing and send it to anybody willing to make some up. The module is only $10 or so.

[defied]

That's too bad, a pretty one would be so easy. I'll make a drawing and send it to anybody willing to make some up. The module is only $10 or so.

I honestly think we could make a whole "Sleeve" that the module could drop in to pretty easily.

The one big issue I found is that the brass tophat, and the copper contact line on the light corrode against each other super easily. I would want to do this out of a diff material. Also that brass tophat, and the module corrode in between as well, so I would have to create a solder joint somewhere unobtrusive (Shouldn't be hard).

As you can see, I'm think of ways to make my own light better, while keeping it all store bought. Spinning a custom sleeve does not work. I'd rather have China custom the reflector, and driver for us.

D(B)

[Nwbrewer]

Mine is made of Aluminum, same as the reflector. A sleeve with a set screw would work perfectly.

[defied]

Mine is made of Aluminum, same as the reflector. A sleeve with a set screw would work perfectly.

There you go. Look at you, all smart n shtuff. Cutting a pipe length, and drilling a hole is easy. finding the appropriate ID, and OD of pipe is the only difficult part.

D(B)

[Nwbrewer]

Mine is made of Aluminum, same as the reflector. A sleeve with a set screw would work perfectly.

There you go. Look at you, all smart n shtuff. Cutting a pipe length, and drilling a hole is easy. finding the appropriate ID, and OD of pipe is the only difficult part.

D(B)

I want a lathe....

[defied]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=44859



$550

D(B)

[camerone]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=44859

_NOT_ worth it. You'll spend a boatload of time and money getting it cleaned up and trued up to be decent enough to hold any kind of tolerance that won't be embarrassing. If you're going to work on the 7x series (8 isn't much better) lathes, then the MicroMark http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7X14- ... ,8176.html 7x14 is the way to go and is far superior to the HF/Grizzly/whatever units. They've got it spec'd with real inch leadscrews (instead of metric), longer bed (which is really important -- more so than you think), and a more powerful motor (350W vs 250W). It's also cleaned of the crappy red Chinese grease they load the stuff with. Sure, it's still a cheap Asian lathe, but the hard work's done for you. It still falls in the "disposable" price range, too.

The 2 inch bed difference makes it alone worthwhile, but not having to clean off the goop is priceless. I can't tell you how many of my machine shop parts I've had to get that crap off of, and I hate it every time.

If lights and cans are a plan, starting on a 7 inch or 8 inch lathe is not thinking smart, though. I have a 7 and it's a PITA to work on most pieces usable as dive gear. I find myself borrowing time with a friend's 16 inch lathe for a lot of things. I'm seriously considering an upgrade already to a 13 inch swing...

[smike]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=44859

_NOT_ worth it. You'll spend a boatload of time and money getting it cleaned up and trued up to be decent enough to hold any kind of tolerance that won't be embarrassing. If you're going to work on the 7x series (8 isn't much better) lathes, then the MicroMark http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-7X14- ... ,8176.html 7x14 is the way to go and is far superior to the HF/Grizzly/whatever units. They've got it spec'd with real inch leadscrews (instead of metric), longer bed (which is really important -- more so than you think), and a more powerful motor (350W vs 250W). It's also cleaned of the crappy red Chinese grease they load the stuff with. Sure, it's still a cheap Asian lathe, but the hard work's done for you. It still falls in the "disposable" price range, too.

The 2 inch bed difference makes it alone worthwhile, but not having to clean off the goop is priceless. I can't tell you how many of my machine shop parts I've had to get that crap off of, and I hate it every time.

If lights and cans are a plan, starting on a 7 inch or 8 inch lathe is not thinking smart, though. I have a 7 and it's a PITA to work on most pieces usable as dive gear. I find myself borrowing time with a friend's 16 inch lathe for a lot of things. I'm seriously considering an upgrade already to a 13 inch swing...

I have a 7x10 or is it a 7x12 - The MicroMark is a way better machine, and it comes with extras, that make it worth it even without the real inch leadscrews and the extra length and higher tolerances. I have my machine working for me, but I constantly am running into limitations, or situations where I have to work around. I am still looking for a bigger machine that I can afford.