Well, lets see.CaptnJack wrote:And you've apparently tried how many of those?Jeff Pack wrote:Kool Aid comes in all flavors.
airsix wrote:Yep. Get a hard goodman so you can easily swap hands. It's handy for the reasons Richard stated, but especially so when scootering. "But I don't have a scooter" you say. Neither do I but my logbook says 17 of my last 25 dives were scooter dives. This place is full of enablers, but I do not have a problem. I can stop any time I want to.CaptnJack wrote:Scooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooter
Nice to see definitions changingJeff Pack wrote:Well, lets see.CaptnJack wrote:And you've apparently tried how many of those?Jeff Pack wrote:Kool Aid comes in all flavors.
I drank the hard shell Kool Aid and got Oxygen Poisoning when the new cool rebreather I just had to have malfunctioned.
Drank the DSV Kool Aid and had one implode almost killing me and my team because they said I needed to have one to transport my team.
And on and on.
There's always someone around ready to serve you some kind of fancy, you gotta have it, kool aid.
Sounder wrote:Under normal circumstances, I would never tell another man how to shave his balls... but this device should not be kept secret.
Again, come do the MMM. There are some divers there who will take the time to explain the "why" behind what they use, and then you can take it as the free advice it is, and they're so NOT kool-aid that they'll probably still dive with you.Jeff Pack wrote:Kool Aid comes in all flavors.
Buy a light from Dusty - $350scubnewb wrote:***Dizzy**** from reading evey post... I just ordered a Q40 and SL4 to use till I can get a good quality primary can light or light cannon or what ever it is that I decide I want and can afford. All I know is I want something that is not to bulky, easy to handle, plenty bright but not to overwhelming, and gets the job done so I dont need to buy anything else ever again that fits in my $200-$300/350 budget...
Now please point me the right way...
with water and drink it, not snort the powder directly from the packet, right? 
" - SpatmanI think the point is that you don't need to spend more than your $350 to have a "good quality primary can light." Dusty is one option, a used 10 watt Salvo/LM, or ask around and guys like Nwbrewer, H2O doc and airsix are willing to give tons of good advice about how to build your own. A big part of the decision has to do with how you want to dive. If you intend to dive in a vertical position, the pistol grip is less of a problem for you. If you want to learn to dive in trim and control your buoyancy, it helps to put the can (which has the heavy parts) close to your center of gravity so you don't have as much trouble balancing a bunch of battery weight way out in front of you. If you plan to use your light for general illumination or video, a broad soft light is preferable; but if you want to communicate, it helps to have a light that either has a strong hot spot in the center, or the ability to focus so you can put all that power in one direction to give clear light signals to your buddies. Do you dive with your primary on a long hose? Then the canister is a perfect catch to hold that hose in place. If you don't use a long hose, that value is lost for you. Jeff asked about the Sola, and for the money, there are other solutions that offer many advantages that aren't quantified in lumens, burn time etc.scubnewb wrote:***Dizzy**** from reading evey post... I just ordered a Q40 and SL4 to use till I can get a good quality primary can light or light cannon or what ever it is that I decide I want and can afford. All I know is I want something that is not to bulky, easy to handle, plenty bright but not to overwhelming, and gets the job done so I dont need to buy anything else ever again that fits in my $200-$300/350 budget...
Now please point me the right way...
I think overall i have a pretty good understanding of where most peepolas are coming from in general, and I know what direction I am going and have a good idea of what I want... I like what I heard about the light with all the briteness options and strobing... but I am all about value and who can build the best light at the fairest price, as well as often fabricating my own things as well. I have seen one of these guys lights before, not sure whos it was but Coulterboy on this board has one and he showed it to me when met him recently at his place. PRETTY FRIGGEN BRIGHT!!!! Making one just doesnt seem like it should be that difficult (not to knock anyones craft) but its really basic circuitry when it comes to flashlights as I have been taking them apart and making things out of them since I was a kid lol... but the whole water/crush proof thing is a learning curve that would have to be conquered... I did see a really cool video where a guy made a light with friggen mineral oil and a 4 dollar home depot light and was down at 80'... pretty damm genius what he came up with, but ummm i dont want to have to deal with mineral oil everytime i change my batteries LMAO! 
Paulicarp wrote:I think the point is that you don't need to spend more than your $350 to have a "good quality primary can light." Dusty is one option, a used 10 watt Salvo/LM, or ask around and guys like Nwbrewer, H2O doc and airsix are willing to give tons of good advice about how to build your own. A big part of the decision has to do with how you want to dive. If you intend to dive in a vertical position, the pistol grip is less of a problem for you. If you want to learn to dive in trim and control your buoyancy, it helps to put the can (which has the heavy parts) close to your center of gravity so you don't have as much trouble balancing a bunch of battery weight way out in front of you. If you plan to use your light for general illumination or video, a broad soft light is preferable; but if you want to communicate, it helps to have a light that either has a strong hot spot in the center, or the ability to focus so you can put all that power in one direction to give clear light signals to your buddies. Do you dive with your primary on a long hose? Then the canister is a perfect catch to hold that hose in place. If you don't use a long hose, that value is lost for you. Jeff asked about the Sola, and for the money, there are other solutions that offer many advantages that aren't quantified in lumens, burn time etc.scubnewb wrote:***Dizzy**** from reading evey post... I just ordered a Q40 and SL4 to use till I can get a good quality primary can light or light cannon or what ever it is that I decide I want and can afford. All I know is I want something that is not to bulky, easy to handle, plenty bright but not to overwhelming, and gets the job done so I dont need to buy anything else ever again that fits in my $200-$300/350 budget...
Now please point me the right way...
So it's not an easy "point me in the right way" kind of question. It depends a lot on how you choose to dive. Why a can light? Why a long hose? Why blade fins? Why compass on left wrist, depth on right wrist? There are well thought out answers to these questions, and it's not just all because of kool-aid or because someone cool does it that way. That's why I've invited you and Jeff to come to MMM and see in practice the reasons why.
The first light I bought was a used Halcoyn Scout for $40. I've since dropped in an LED to replace the halogen bulb, and it still serves as a backup on every dive. It was pathetic for a main light, but it did the job for the first bunch of dives until I got my can light. I'm glad I saved that $300 I was considering spending on a UK and put it toward a better solution right from the start.
scubnewb wrote:Making one just doesnt seem like it should be that difficult (not to knock anyones craft) but its really basic circuitry when it comes to flashlights
It only took me 5 light projects and 12 optic/reflector variations to finally get a really good one. Granted, they all worked, none were terrible, and I'm picky. But there's a whole lot more to it than just wiring up a battery, switch, and light-bulb.Agreed. I was going to and then I started looking around on light forums and what not, got a headache, then paid someone else...ha ha haairsix wrote:scubnewb wrote:Making one just doesnt seem like it should be that difficult (not to knock anyones craft) but its really basic circuitry when it comes to flashlights
Airsix Dusty2 NWbrewer H2Odoc
You're right that it's really easy to make a dive light. What's hard is making a good one. Waterproofing is the easy part. You have to find a light-engine (LED, incandescent, HID) that is a good value, durable, efficient, and provides enough output (at an acceptable color temp). You also need to consider an adequate heat-path for the parts that get hot. Most DIY lights fall on their face in this department. Then there's finding an effective method of gathering and focusing the output - another frequent DIY fail. Water has a refractive index similar to glass and hard plastics so you can't use any external optics. It'll need a power source with internal resistance low enough to support the current demand that provides the desired run-time, and lastly you have to package it into a form-factor that works well for diving.
Piece of cake.
Should you do it? Of course! Is it easy? Not really.
-Ben
Rebuilding is easy, piecing together part's and sourcing reliable parts is the problem. So far i have rebuilt 5 lights, 2 of those being backup and 3 primary canister lights working on two backup primaries as of the moment(time consuming). Granted I have done more research than wasting materials, but I get it on the first try.airsix wrote:scubnewb wrote:Making one just doesnt seem like it should be that difficult (not to knock anyones craft) but its really basic circuitry when it comes to flashlights
Airsix Dusty2 NWbrewer H2Odoc
You're right that it's really easy to make a dive light. What's hard is making a good one. Waterproofing is the easy part. You have to find a light-engine (LED, incandescent, HID) that is a good value, durable, efficient, and provides enough output (at an acceptable color temp). You also need to consider an adequate heat-path for the parts that get hot. Most DIY lights fall on their face in this department. Then there's finding an effective method of gathering and focusing the output - another frequent DIY fail. Water has a refractive index similar to glass and hard plastics so you can't use any external optics. It'll need a power source with internal resistance low enough to support the current demand that provides the desired run-time, and lastly you have to package it into a form-factor that works well for diving.
Piece of cake.
Should you do it? Of course! Is it easy? Not really.
-Ben
I have 2 H2O doc lights and they're great. The new version is more light than I need on most dives and works great for lighting up entire rick walls at 60 and 70 feet. My older H2O doc light is still going strong and is my lender for when my friends lose a light or battery or whatever else happens to those "Commercial" quality lights they have.scubnewb wrote:***Dizzy**** from reading evey post... I just ordered a Q40 and SL4 to use till I can get a good quality primary can light or light cannon or what ever it is that I decide I want and can afford. All I know is I want something that is not to bulky, easy to handle, plenty bright but not to overwhelming, and gets the job done so I dont need to buy anything else ever again that fits in my $200-$300/350 budget...
Now please point me the right way...
sitkadiver wrote:I have 2 H2O doc lights and they're great. The new version is more light than I need on most dives and works great for lighting up entire rick walls at 60 and 70 feet. My older H2O doc light is still going strong and is my lender for when my friends lose a light or battery or whatever else happens to those "Commercial" quality lights they have.scubnewb wrote:***Dizzy**** from reading evey post... I just ordered a Q40 and SL4 to use till I can get a good quality primary can light or light cannon or what ever it is that I decide I want and can afford. All I know is I want something that is not to bulky, easy to handle, plenty bright but not to overwhelming, and gets the job done so I dont need to buy anything else ever again that fits in my $200-$300/350 budget...
Now please point me the right way...
Dave S. has a z light and likes it a lot.
These guys are certainly in your price range and they build quality kit. I would check with them before going the mass produced commercial route.
airsix wrote:scubnewb wrote:Making one just doesnt seem like it should be that difficult (not to knock anyones craft) but its really basic circuitry when it comes to flashlights
Airsix Dusty2 NWbrewer H2Odoc
You're right that it's really easy to make a dive light. What's hard is making a good one. Waterproofing is the easy part. You have to find a light-engine (LED, incandescent, HID) that is a good value, durable, efficient, and provides enough output (at an acceptable color temp). You also need to consider an adequate heat-path for the parts that get hot. Most DIY lights fall on their face in this department. Then there's finding an effective method of gathering and focusing the output - another frequent DIY fail. Water has a refractive index similar to glass and hard plastics so you can't use any external optics. It'll need a power source with internal resistance low enough to support the current demand that provides the desired run-time, and lastly you have to package it into a form-factor that works well for diving.
Piece of cake.
Should you do it? Of course! Is it easy? Not really.
-Ben
All I meant was you weren't buddied with Max or I on that dive, and therefore not expected to stick close to us like a buddy would.H20doctor wrote:H20doc (the light in the distance) was not on our "Team" but he wanted to signal us to come see the Lumpsucker. Without a good primary, Maxtrax and I wouldn't have gotten to see
Team ? What team.. We were diving , as divers.. You crack me up
with water and drink it, not snort the powder directly from the packet, right? " - SpatmanIts cause I dive as a rebel.. Rebel diving, team solo..Nwbrewer wrote:All I meant was you weren't buddied with Max or I on that dive, and therefore not expected to stick close to us like a buddy would.H20doctor wrote:H20doc (the light in the distance) was not on our "Team" but he wanted to signal us to come see the Lumpsucker. Without a good primary, Maxtrax and I wouldn't have gotten to see
Team ? What team.. We were diving , as divers.. You crack me up
Very impressive. For some reason I was under the impression you don't make those anymore...or DO YOU??H20doctor wrote:I made coulterboys light jeremy...
Jeremy wrote:Very impressive. For some reason I was under the impression you don't make those anymore...or DO YOU??H20doctor wrote:I made coulterboys light jeremy...
Yes he does. You just have to ask him the right way and nicely.eliseaboo wrote:Jeremy wrote:Very impressive. For some reason I was under the impression you don't make those anymore...or DO YOU??H20doctor wrote:I made coulterboys light jeremy...
