AquaticEngineer wrote:Where are you guys getting the water tight canisters for housing the batteries in?
The short answer is we build them. Most of us are using plastic pipe (PVC is most common) and fitting them with custom lids and bases made from PVC, acetal, HDPE, etc. Get a copy of this book. It's full of great canister-building information. The battery and bulb info is dated, but the sections on canister building are still valid and as useful as ever.
Here are a couple of shots of my most recent DIY canister. It was made from PVC and shot with a coat of bedliner. The canister has been in service since 2009 but the lid is a newer one I built last summer as an upgrade. The canister base is stepped just like the lid (1 inch recess) and is solvent-welded in place. You can easily knock out a basic canister on a Saturday morning with just hand tools. Even quicker if you have a well equipped workshop.
Ben
"The place looked like a washing machine full of Josh's carharts. I was not into it." --Sockmonkey
The nice part is that NiMH and especially lithium batteries are now so small that even a mini-lathe (7x12 or 7x14) is more than capable of cranking out canisters and lids. The old lead acid or NiCads used to require serious shop equipment to build.
There are no stupid questions, but there sure are a lot of inquisitive idiots...
I gotta go pick up some clear PVC pipe tomorrow for a slurp gun I'm building so I think I will grab some 2" or 3" schedule 80 pipe, a cap, and a test plug while I'm at the plumbing store and get started on the housing.
CaptnJack wrote:Just FYI you do not want to use acrylic pipe or tube which is commonly available clear. Its brittle and will crack easily.
I read it as he's going to get some clear for a different project, and some Sched. 80 for the canister.
I was originally going use clear PVC on my canister and my slurp gun since I didnt want to use acrylic tube.
After calling around and finding the best deal on clear 3" PVC pipe was $102 for an 8 ft section(which is actually a really good price) and that they would only sell the whole piece, I decided I'll probably do everything out of schedule 80 instead since I can get it by the foot.
If my test runs of everthing work the way I want them to I may get the clear PVC later, just for cool factor
- I got a good squirt in my mouth
- I would imagine that there would be a large amount of involuntary gagging
- I don't know about you but I'm not into swallowing it
But that lathe needs a trained operator.. And skill.. Even a small sears wood lathe needs care and talent to make canisters, and parts which = time .. And for me time is limited.. I give kudos to a lathe person and using a caliper.. But for me its just a hobby and fun building and creating something I built from scratch.. From an idea to a finished product.. Thats cool for me
And standing in front of a lathe while you bore it out at the rate of 0.005" per pass is like watching paint dry.
Okay, so teach me how to make deep boring cuts that don't just flex the boring bar!*
*crappy little toy import lathe & boring bar holder that only takes 3/8" shank boring bars.
Haha, U answered you own question with the last line!
You need a real lathe not an expensive toy.
jet-1340.jpg
That is my lathe. Jet gear head 13x40.
No mouse lathes in my shop. Have dro's on the x and y axis.
Well built lathe.
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- I got a good squirt in my mouth
- I would imagine that there would be a large amount of involuntary gagging
- I don't know about you but I'm not into swallowing it
- I got a good squirt in my mouth
- I would imagine that there would be a large amount of involuntary gagging
- I don't know about you but I'm not into swallowing it