1st and reg for a sling bottle...

[Norris]

It depends. Pretty easy to lose all your gas that way when scootering. The purge button gets depressed by the force of the water. You can add an inline shut off, but you'll still have a flooded first stage....

You must have one hell of a fast scooter...

Dont think it has to be fast when you consider the pressure of water pushing against the purge. I was being towed one time and it happened to my necklace reg, had to turn it around.

[Norris]

It depends. Pretty easy to lose all your gas that way when scootering. The purge button gets depressed by the force of the water. You can add an inline shut off, but you'll still have a flooded first stage....

You must have one hell of a fast scooter...

Dont think it has to be fast when you consider the pressure of water pushing against the purge. I was being towed one time and it happened to my necklace reg, had to turn it around.

[Jeff Pack]

Regs have a tendency to want to free flow when scootering. I've seen it happen more than once, and it can be very tough to hear.

Even if you notice it relatively quickly, by the time you let off the trigger and shut it down, you've lost a good chunk of your 19 or 30 cuft. A big reason I leave my deco/stage bottles charged, but off.

Isnt that what pre dive reg settings are for? Even at pre dive, its breathable, but far less likley to free flow.

Just asking, not arguing... so I can understand the tradeoffs of my setup.

Although I'm at abit of a loss on the scooter warning freeflow, as wouldnt that by definition happen to any reg, like your octo, even your primary, since they are all in the same environment...
( I see Norris just commented on this part..)

[BDub]

Regs have a tendency to want to free flow when scootering. I've seen it happen more than once, and it can be very tough to hear.

Even if you notice it relatively quickly, by the time you let off the trigger and shut it down, you've lost a good chunk of your 19 or 30 cuft. A big reason I leave my deco/stage bottles charged, but off.

Isnt that what pre dive reg settings are for? Even at pre dive, its breathable, but far less likley to free flow.

Just asking, not arguing... so I can understand the tradeoffs of my setup.

Although I'm at abit of a loss on the scooter warning freeflow, as wouldnt that by definition happen to any reg, like your octo, even your primary, since they are all in the same environment...
( I see Norris just commented on this part..)

I was adding in the pre-dive, de-tuned comment to my previous post while you were posting this.

De-tuning definitely helps. However, I still have to charge my bottles more often on a scooter dive than a non-scooter dive.

And yes, it can, and does, happen to any reg. However, it's a bit easier to notice when it's your primary or your backup (if it's necklaced) than if it's stowed over on the side of a bottle and the 2nd stage is somewhere below your shoulder or armpit.

However, there is a trade-off. If you do keep your bottle charged, but off, and you're not diligent about checking and keeping your bottle charged, you can lose the charge. Now you risk flooding the 1st stage or unseating an o-ring when you re-charge it (have had that happen, and have seen it happen more than once) making the bottle unusable, possibly at a time you desperately need it.

[Jeff Pack]

thx, appreciate all the info.

Since I"ll have both my 19 and a 30 if I ever solo scoot again, I'll probably just turn on both, and I have to figure the odds of both failing, as well as my primary back gas failing, have got to be way way up there. A risk I'm willing to take anyways.

Set both the pony and sling bottle to pre dive (on the micra's, the lowest venturi setting?), and go for it.

Appreciate everyones input, and will keep all the above advice in mind.

[Jeff Pack]

Oh...

One last question, any words of wisdom whether the reg on the sling bottle should be an octo (yellow) versus primary black?

I was actually thinking Octo Yellow might be better on the sling. (My pony I bought through Bob is black, thus keeping them visually seperate).

[Joshua Smith]

Lol. You're getting into slippery territory, here.

It should be whatever color you like.

Especially if you like black.

[BDub]

Lol. You're getting into slippery territory, here.

It should be whatever color you like.

Especially if you like black.

Yeah, I agree with Josh.

Depends on how you want to use it, or if color even matters.

Most of my 2nd stages are black, but I have a couple of yellows that I use on deco and/or stage bottles. I don't color code my regs or hoses though, so when setting up my gear I just use whatever reg is available at the time, regardless of color. On one dive it may be my O2 reg, the next dive a bottom stage reg and yet the next dive the ean50 reg.

[spatman]

Most of my 2nd stages are black, but I have a couple of yellows that I use on deco and/or stage bottles. I don't color code my regs or hoses though, so when setting up my gear I just use whatever reg is available at the time, regardless of color. On one dive it may be my O2 reg, the next dive a bottom stage reg and yet the next dive the ean50 reg.

So you O2 clean all of your regs, then?

[BDub]

Most of my 2nd stages are black, but I have a couple of yellows that I use on deco and/or stage bottles. I don't color code my regs or hoses though, so when setting up my gear I just use whatever reg is available at the time, regardless of color. On one dive it may be my O2 reg, the next dive a bottom stage reg and yet the next dive the ean50 reg.

So you O2 clean all of your regs, then?

I do. Mainly for the reason listed above....I want my regs to be interchangeable and able to be used however I need them (including the O2 bottle).

I also prefer to clean/rebuild all the same way, rather than "do this for this reg, but do that for that reg". I often rebuild a few at once, and I prefer to have the process be consistent for each.

[Joshua Smith]

Most of my 2nd stages are black, but I have a couple of yellows that I use on deco and/or stage bottles. I don't color code my regs or hoses though, so when setting up my gear I just use whatever reg is available at the time, regardless of color. On one dive it may be my O2 reg, the next dive a bottom stage reg and yet the next dive the ean50 reg.

So you O2 clean all of your regs, then?

I do. Mainly for the reason listed above....I want my regs to be interchangeable and able to be used however I need them (including the O2 bottle).

I also prefer to clean/rebuild all the same way, rather than "do this for this reg, but do that for that reg". I often rebuild a few at once, and I prefer to have the process be consistent for each.

Same here. Plus, I can access and use all of my OC regs in zero viz, touch only situation. When, presumably, color would be the last thing I cared about.

[spatman]

Most of my 2nd stages are black, but I have a couple of yellows that I use on deco and/or stage bottles. I don't color code my regs or hoses though, so when setting up my gear I just use whatever reg is available at the time, regardless of color. On one dive it may be my O2 reg, the next dive a bottom stage reg and yet the next dive the ean50 reg.

So you O2 clean all of your regs, then?

I do. Mainly for the reason listed above....I want my regs to be interchangeable and able to be used however I need them (including the O2 bottle).

I also prefer to clean/rebuild all the same way, rather than "do this for this reg, but do that for that reg". I often rebuild a few at once, and I prefer to have the process be consistent for each.

I'd like to be able to have them all interchangeable, also. I really need to learn how to O2 clean them.

[camerone]

I'd like to be able to have them all interchangeable, also. I really need to learn how to O2 clean them.

It's way easier than you think. You should just buy this http://airspeedpress.com/newregbook.html if you don't already own a copy. I think this one: http://www.scubatools.com/c-23-regulato ... -book.aspx is actually better as a textbook, but the former is 100% focused on pragmatism, which is probably all you want. If you care about theory, the latter is better.

Most of my 2nd stages are black, but I have a couple of yellows that I use on deco and/or stage bottles. I don't color code my regs or hoses though, so when setting up my gear I just use whatever reg is available at the time, regardless of color. On one dive it may be my O2 reg, the next dive a bottom stage reg and yet the next dive the ean50 reg.

Ditto. A reg is a reg is a reg in my dive locker, and to color code things is just asking for an accident. Proper reg switching has to do with how you actually make the switch (procedure of turning on/off bottles, breathing, etc) and not with visual identification of one color or another.

[spatman]

I'd like to be able to have them all interchangeable, also. I really need to learn how to O2 clean them.

It's way easier than you think. You should just buy this http://airspeedpress.com/newregbook.html if you don't already own a copy. I think this one: http://www.scubatools.com/c-23-regulato ... -book.aspx is actually better as a textbook, but the former is 100% focused on pragmatism, which is probably all you want. If you care about theory, the latter is better.

Already own both of those books. Just need to get my act together and find the time to read them again.

[camerone]

Already own both of those books. Just need to get my act together and find the time to read them again.

One other thing: Apeks shop manuals are dang near idiot proof for rebuilding first and second stages. Grab an old DS4/(a)TX50 and just do it step by step with the Apeks guide. It'll make a lot more sense that way, and teach you almost as much as the books.

[BDub]

Ditto. A reg is a reg is a reg in my dive locker, and to color code things is just asking for an accident. Proper reg switching has to do with how you actually make the switch (procedure of turning on/off bottles, breathing, etc) and not with visual identification of one color or another.

+100

[spatman]

Already own both of those books. Just need to get my act together and find the time to read them again.

One other thing: Apeks shop manuals are dang near idiot proof for rebuilding first and second stages. Grab an old DS4/(a)TX50 and just do it step by step with the Apeks guide. It'll make a lot more sense that way, and teach you almost as much as the books.

Ha. My regs are Apeks, and that's pretty much how I learned to service them.

[Paulicarp]

Ditto. A reg is a reg is a reg in my dive locker, and to color code things is just asking for an accident. Proper reg switching has to do with how you actually make the switch (procedure of turning on/off bottles, breathing, etc) and not with visual identification of one color or another.

+100

Some divers use flavor to differentiate their regs; I understand strawberry is pretty widely used in some circles.

[Joshua Smith]

Ditto. A reg is a reg is a reg in my dive locker, and to color code things is just asking for an accident. Proper reg switching has to do with how you actually make the switch (procedure of turning on/off bottles, breathing, etc) and not with visual identification of one color or another.

+100

Some divers use flavor to differentiate their regs; I understand strawberry is pretty widely used in some circles.

Last guy to use the Strawberry technique quit diving shortly afterwards. Now he just hires nannies and changes diapers and stuff.

[Jeff Pack]

So as I understand all the above, if I use a SB Mk2, I can pressurize the system, and then close the valve, and be ok? (Even if it floods?)

Just open the valve when I need to use the sling bottle?

I found a nice little/mini cressi reg to use for a 2nd, and still tracking down a Mk2 for a first.

I'll just keep the US Divers/Conshelf 1st stage for a pony bottle thats turned on all the time.

[CaptnJack]

So as I understand all the above, if I use a SB Mk2, I can pressurize the system, and then close the valve, and be ok? (Even if it floods?)

Just open the valve when I need to use the sling bottle?

I found a nice little/mini cressi reg to use for a 2nd, and still tracking down a Mk2 for a first.

I'll just keep the US Divers/Conshelf 1st stage for a pony bottle thats turned on all the time.

Any reg will be ok if it floods. At least for that dive, maybe more. How many more who knows. The MK2 is more flood tolerant than most, but nothing is forever.

Do you have any pictures of this dual pony setup? I wondering when you'll add your 6cf bottle as a third pony

[Jeff Pack]

I have 2 19's, but the 2nd 19 isnt setup yet for a pony , currently just slung.

Suppose I could use my baby 6cf for a pony, but whats the point? Maybe I could just carry a bunch of spare air's like a weight belt.

[CaptnJack]

And the main tank is how big?

[Jeff Pack]

122cf.

[CaptnJack]

122cf.

122 + 19 + 30 = 170cf or thereabouts for a receational dive.

Does your buddy have killer consumption or is he wearing doubles or something?