Cave line

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Nwcid
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Cave line

Post by Nwcid »

We have been tying off our bolt snaps with cave line using a "cave" knot as found on many online sites.

We have a pair of DRIS 1000 lights that we have used (been on about 6 dives) them only a few times now. The other day I was looking at the knot and the lines that wrapped though the light were frayed. With one good twist on the bolt snap the line broke away. Is this normal?

We have our regs, SPG's, ect all tied the same way with no issues. I am just worried about losing our lights as that gets expensive. Unless there is a better way to tie I think I am going to use some P-cord to tie them off this time.
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CaptnJack
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Re: Cave line

Post by CaptnJack »

You might need to round off the edge of the holes in the DRIS light. Does not sound like a line or a knot issue - more like a sharp edge.
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camerone
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Re: Cave line

Post by camerone »

Industrial grade zip-ties work really well, too, instead of cave line. You can still cut them if you had to, but they won't fray on you, and they're much easier to apply. Just make sure you get good ones, as the cheapies will snap or break too easily...
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Dusty2
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Re: Cave line

Post by Dusty2 »

I would advise putting a SS split ring in the light hole then tie to it. That will get rid of the abrasion point
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camerone
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Re: Cave line

Post by camerone »

Dusty2 wrote:I would advise putting a SS split ring in the light hole then tie to it. That will get rid of the abrasion point
That's the metal-on-metal issue that the cave line's designed to avoid in the first place. If you're okay with that, then it's a good solution, too.
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Nwcid
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Re: Cave line

Post by Nwcid »

Good points guys. I think I will start with P-cord since I have tons of it here. If I have a problem with that I will try one of the other options.

I just wanted to make sure I was not doing something wrong with the "cave" line.
John

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spatman
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Re: Cave line

Post by spatman »

CaptnJack wrote:You might need to round off the edge of the holes in the DRIS light. Does not sound like a line or a knot issue - more like a sharp edge.
How would you recommend doing that? I have a backup light with the same problem.
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CaptnJack
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Re: Cave line

Post by CaptnJack »

spatman wrote:
CaptnJack wrote:You might need to round off the edge of the holes in the DRIS light. Does not sound like a line or a knot issue - more like a sharp edge.
How would you recommend doing that? I have a backup light with the same problem.
Little rat-tail file from Harbor Freight? Sandpaper rolled into a tiny tube? I suspect there's just a really sharp edge on the hole the line is being threaded through. Tying the line super tight can also help keep it from "sawing" on edges like this, but not a cure-all. If you tie the line while wet you can get it tighter, then let dry and put a drop of super glue on the knot before diving.
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Jeff Pack
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Re: Cave line

Post by Jeff Pack »

In machining, there is a deburring tool for doing exactly that.
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Dusty2
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Re: Cave line

Post by Dusty2 »

Jeff Pack wrote:In machining, there is a deburring tool for doing exactly that.
Easy on the outside but not the inside and doing so will expose the bare aluminum which will corrode badly since the casing is electrically charged. Electrolysis is bad stuff
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Nwbrewer
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Re: Cave line

Post by Nwbrewer »

camerone wrote:
Dusty2 wrote:I would advise putting a SS split ring in the light hole then tie to it. That will get rid of the abrasion point
That's the metal-on-metal issue that the cave line's designed to avoid in the first place. If you're okay with that, then it's a good solution, too.
I believe Dusty is suggesting tying to the split ring, avoiding the "metal on metal" issue to the bolt snap. You can still cut away the light between the split ring and the bolt snap.
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CaptnJack
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Re: Cave line

Post by CaptnJack »

Dusty2 wrote:
Jeff Pack wrote:In machining, there is a deburring tool for doing exactly that.
Easy on the outside but not the inside and doing so will expose the bare aluminum which will corrode badly since the casing is electrically charged. Electrolysis is bad stuff
The casing's probably the ground but the positive terminal couldn't be exposed to create a electrolytic connect through seawater (the light wouldn't light if it did). Line or split ring the anodizing is going to wear in the hole eventually, faster if the edge is sharp.
Sounder wrote:Under normal circumstances, I would never tell another man how to shave his balls... but this device should not be kept secret.
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ORDiver
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Re: Cave line

Post by ORDiver »

spatman wrote:
CaptnJack wrote:You might need to round off the edge of the holes in the DRIS light. Does not sound like a line or a knot issue - more like a sharp edge.
How would you recommend doing that? I have a backup light with the same problem.
I have a dremel tool with a little metal grinding bit on it that would work perfectly if you want to use it.
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spatman
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Re: Cave line

Post by spatman »

ORDiver wrote:
spatman wrote:
CaptnJack wrote:You might need to round off the edge of the holes in the DRIS light. Does not sound like a line or a knot issue - more like a sharp edge.
How would you recommend doing that? I have a backup light with the same problem.
I have a dremel tool with a little metal grinding bit on it that would work perfectly if you want to use it.
Excellent.
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CaptnJack
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Re: Cave line

Post by CaptnJack »

If the fancy dremel doesn't work out, Harbor Freight is your friend...
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-p ... -4614.html
Sounder wrote:Under normal circumstances, I would never tell another man how to shave his balls... but this device should not be kept secret.
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