Light advice

[kr2y5]

Thanks. The right side in the picture in the earlier post (night shot, on the grass) is Light Monkey 32W LED (2500 lumens, 6-degree hot spot), new, single LED diode as far as I can tell. The left side is BigBlue CF900 backup (900 lumens, 7-37 degrees adjustable).

I tried to shine on a dark surface, to avoid a distorted picture by overloading the camera sensor.

Attached below a similar picture when shining on a white wall: LM 32 LED on the left, and the backup inside a video beam on the right. The left side of the picture below is not the same as what's seen by naked eye (the actual spot is about 2x smaller, the corona appears brighter, and there is no sharp boundary between the two). The right side is close to what a naked eye sees. When viewed with naked eye, the size of the spot on the left is very similar to the right, brighter at the center, but not as easy to tell apart from the surrounding disc of light because there is no sharp contrast, the brightness smoothly decreases from the center towards the edges.

[ljjames]

The LM LED is a fine light, as are pretty much all of that general canister type ilk (Halcyon Focus, EOS, HID, Etc..). If your reason for wanting to get a different light is to go light cord-less or smaller light head or whatever, then go for it, but if you are looking to choose something different it on the grounds of beam issues alone it will be a case of diminishing return.

[kr2y5]

The LM LED is a fine light, as are pretty much all of that general canister type ilk (Halcyon Focus, EOS, HID, Etc..). If your reason for wanting to get a different light is to go light cord-less or smaller light head or whatever, then go for it, but if you are looking to choose something different it on the grounds of beam issues alone it will be a case of diminishing return.

Thanks! Oh no, not cordless... just went corded to become compliant with the GUE protocols. The reason I was having second thoughts and looking into UWLD is because my GUE friend seemed concerned about beam tightness, and the potential to blind other divers. Just curious if there is any difference between this and UWLD. I only have 1 dive on it, so technically, I can swap it if needed (although a bit of a PITA). It sounds like diving next to this light wouldn't bother you or Richard, though, so maybe it's a keeper

[ljjames]

*shrug* I wouldn't get so stressed about GUE approved kit Worry more about being a good dive buddy and getting out and diving lots and having fun <grin>

The truth is, were we to dive together my bubble of video lights would be blinding everyone equally. I just need my buddy to have something that I can glance over and see. If you are in front of the camera (where i can keep an eye on you), your light will be pointed down/away from the camera unless asked to pass it through the frame for some cool lens flare, otherwise it causes a very obnoxious hot spot. Bottom line is, I'm pretty sure it won't be blinding me with spill.

Generally people blind me by shining the light in my eyes accidentally. <grin> Mostly gone are the days of the Diverite lights with no shroud to speak of and first gen Halcyon lights prior to the upgraded reflector and EKPP or whatever it was with the longer shroud that then lead to the current Explorer design.

[CaptnJack]

I wouldn't be concerned about the "width" of that beam at all. UWLD is a cave diver, and so are the LM guys. None of them are making handheld canister lights which are so broad they don't work for normal buddy communication. Video lights are too broad.

Anyone complaining about the LM 32W has just got light envy lol

[kdupreez]

+1 for the halcyon focus..

I have one and it's an led that's as bright, if not slightly brighter than 21w HID..

AND you can completely focus the beam!!

Battery runs for 6 hours on bright and another 10 on dim..

Love my light!!

https://vimeo.com/105746279

[kdupreez]

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