media blasting and painting tanks
- sheahanmcculla
- I've Got Gills
- Posts: 1387
- Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:54 am
media blasting and painting tanks
I just took a tank in for hydro, and when it comes back I want to media blast it and paint it. I searched the forums, but could not find anything on this. Has anyone done this or heard of anyone doing this?
Why?
Repainted AL cylinders are a huge red flag for VIPs since they may be exposed to heat. And pain just traps salt and corrosion.
Steels are better off being recoated with ZRC zinc based paint.
TDS has umpteen threads on refinishing cylinders.
Richard
ps hydro shops can use the appropriate media + low velocity to blast your tank and not damage it. Don't do this at home.
Repainted AL cylinders are a huge red flag for VIPs since they may be exposed to heat. And pain just traps salt and corrosion.
Steels are better off being recoated with ZRC zinc based paint.
TDS has umpteen threads on refinishing cylinders.
Richard
ps hydro shops can use the appropriate media + low velocity to blast your tank and not damage it. Don't do this at home.
- Aquanautchuck
- Pelagic
- Posts: 919
- Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 4:33 pm
Here is my two cents worth on tank protection. I have learned the hard way (ie: scuba units). Now all my tanks are clear coated with auto clear coat. If they were painted it was removed with paint remover (the orange kind) washed and sprayed with the clear coat. Here are some of the reasons.
The only stickers on my tanks now are the VIP sticker and it is put on over the clear coat. I almost lost a tank to rust because the Mfg sticker was left on for several years and when it was removed the galvanization was gone and rust had set in. The tank was badly pitted and barely passed hydro and VIP. I have noticed that even after one year corrosion sets in under stickers on Al or Steel tanks.
All my tanks VIP the same month each year. After VIP I lightly sand and clean the tank up with Acetone and re-coat. I like the clear coat since I can see a problem and deal with it as soon as it starts.
This is more work I know but it works for me.
The only stickers on my tanks now are the VIP sticker and it is put on over the clear coat. I almost lost a tank to rust because the Mfg sticker was left on for several years and when it was removed the galvanization was gone and rust had set in. The tank was badly pitted and barely passed hydro and VIP. I have noticed that even after one year corrosion sets in under stickers on Al or Steel tanks.
All my tanks VIP the same month each year. After VIP I lightly sand and clean the tank up with Acetone and re-coat. I like the clear coat since I can see a problem and deal with it as soon as it starts.
This is more work I know but it works for me.
Charles
- sheahanmcculla
- I've Got Gills
- Posts: 1387
- Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:54 am
- Aquanautchuck
- Pelagic
- Posts: 919
- Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 4:33 pm
I just buy the rattle can clear coat from auto parts stores. I have tried color auto paint but you defeat the purpose of the clear in not being able to see what is going on under the paint. I have seen AL tanks with most of their paint on but with many blisters on it. Under each blister is corrosion going on. On my HP tanks I also have a bright yellow tank nets for added protection.
Charles
I have a guy who will do all this painting and he can custom air brush tanks too.
Maverick
Diving. . . is an active physical form of meditation. It is so silent- You're like a thought.
SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR
ANYTHING, BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE
STAIRS.
Diving. . . is an active physical form of meditation. It is so silent- You're like a thought.
SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR
ANYTHING, BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE
STAIRS.