Northwest Dive Club

I think there are wipes that help remove the glue as you're removing the cath. Forgot what they're called. I think Pogiguy mentioned it once.

spatman wrote:I think there are wipes that help remove the glue as you're removing the cath. Forgot what they're called. I think Pogiguy mentioned it once.

Yes, there are:
smith and nephew adhesive remover pads
http://global.smith-nephew.com/us/UNISO ... _11875.htm

a hollister brand adhesive remover
http://www.medicalmega.com/medical/hollister/7760.html

and apparently baby oil can help. I never have any of them handy lol as I don't need them around here, only on multiday trips to warmer places.

Maybe LJ can comment more, the girls have to remove their she-p's somehow.

Norris wrote:Cap'n, so the hot weather makes it worse?? Now that I think about it, I guess it would. My hot weather diving was in Jamaica and the Virgin Islands so it was surfshorts, and rash shirt temperatures so lets just say there are two types of people, people who pee in their shorts and....well you get the idea...ha ha


Also I forgot my point in that post... Josh man, even the wide bands popped off? I mean..hmm how do you say...this thing couldnt "POP" off under ANY circumstances I do not think. However the one that CAME with it, that I almost had an accident with, popped off. Hence the wide band plug...whew...ok all better now.

Rick depends on the dives you are doing and how long they are. Many still wear dry suits in warm water. Even in 80+deg water you can go hypothermic if you are in the water long enough.

Biggest problem I have seen when it comes to them popping off is ego. just buy the right size if you are a 23mm get a 23mm dont try to put a 28 or 32 on it will not work.

That and make sure it is open when you start your accent. Or you may wind up with a inie and not a outie and a little freaked out when you get your suit off.

CaptnJack wrote:

Norris wrote:Cap'n, so the hot weather makes it worse?? Now that I think about it, I guess it would. My hot weather diving was in Jamaica and the Virgin Islands so it was surfshorts, and rash shirt temperatures so lets just say there are two types of people, people who pee in their shorts and....well you get the idea...ha ha


Also I forgot my point in that post... Josh man, even the wide bands popped off? I mean..hmm how do you say...this thing couldnt "POP" off under ANY circumstances I do not think. However the one that CAME with it, that I almost had an accident with, popped off. Hence the wide band plug...whew...ok all better now.

I am not sure. I use them in FL and MX. Air temps in the 70s and 80s, water temp is 68F and 76F respectively. I think the glue tends to stay behind the warmer it is. So the next one gets a bit more glue and so on. Can be removed with a solvent but around here I am not diving continuously to need it.

Ahh yeah that totally makes sense. The warm air makes the glue a little more thin and prone to stay behind. I think I read that a warm towel helps to remove them if adhered to strong. Speak up Pogi we need to know the name of those!!

Appreciate all the help and ideas, my biggest thing is I have seen a lot of talk but never met anyone who actually used one, I'm pretty convinced to get on if I use it that'll make the dives that much more relaxed and if I don't need it at least I have it

I'm an avid diver and user of the technology. I've had my fair share of "kinked hoses" and one bladder infection ;-) If I know the dive is going to be 60 minutes or less and there is a bathroom nearby, I'm fine, otherwise I "suit up."

sava6e wrote:Appreciate all the help and ideas, my biggest thing is I have seen a lot of talk but never met anyone who actually used one, I'm pretty convinced to get on if I use it that'll make the dives that much more relaxed and if I don't need it at least I have it

I use them almost every dive. And as mentioned yes it is much more relaxing. Most tech divers have them and use them due to deco dives and having to stay hydrated.

sava6e wrote:Appreciate all the help and ideas, my biggest thing is I have seen a lot of talk but never met anyone who actually used one, I'm pretty convinced to get on if I use it that'll make the dives that much more relaxed and if I don't need it at least I have it

Most of us try not to actively advertize yanno?

I won't even plumb unless I've got adhesive removal wipes with me. I use the AllKare brand. They use citrus oil and work well. Get the wipes. The difference is day and night(mare).

Went the Pee Zipper route.... still can hydrate as well, and no problems after I suit up...its a given...soon as suit goes on ...or you step in the water .....GOTTA GO !! unzip and go.....and on exits ......no waiting until you undress and doff .....just unzip and GO. Until it becomes an issue, the zipper works great.

IMHO

CaptnJack wrote: Most of us try not to actively advertize yanno?

Yep, but some folks do make new puddles in parking lots. I'm usually polite enough to, at least, find a fire hydrant.

When the time comes that if you saw a lumpsucker riding a bay pipefish pursued by a six-gill and you just don't care anymore because you just GOTTA get out of the suit.....NOW!
Yep, time to get a p-valve.

I know this could go off topic easily, but since I haven't read an answer to my un-asked question - here goes.(pun intended)

Do the condoms make a difference and are they readily available? Will the condom catheters from a medical supply store work universally? And does foreskin matter? If uncircumsized do you have to pull/push things around before you glue it on? Maybe that's why some people are having trouble with them staying on. If you pulled the skin back and then it rolled forward during the dive, I could see it potentially pushing the condom catheter off.

I get the condoms from lighthouse for the blind. Best prices and all plausible sizes.
http://shop.lhbindustries.com/BrowsePro ... =Rochester Medical Male External Catheters
There's another page with the latex ones if you prefer those.

renoun wrote:

CaptnJack wrote: Most of us try not to actively advertize yanno?

Yep, but some folks do make new puddles in parking lots. I'm usually polite enough to, at least, find a fire hydrant. :?

Ummm yeah Sounder has zero decorum, but we knew that.

We only use medical cath's.. there are not really any just made for diving.

They are fairly readily available from stores that also carry p-valves, but your best bet is medical supply stores. I usually just buy a box of 100 at a time.

doesnt matter if you are circumcised or not, BUT, brand does make a difference.

Freedom cath's are much easier to get off.. and therefore they also can pull off during a dive easier.. the widebands stick like tar on a duckling! so if you are planning a day of hard diving, go for those.

I use the Freedom cath's cause I can get them off after two dive very easily. I've used the widebands before a few times.. but was missing some skin and hair after a gnarly restroom visit..

Also, like the article I posted states, make sure you "trim the hedges"..

K

sitkadiver wrote: Do the condoms make a difference and are they readily available? Will the condom catheters from a medical supply store work universally?

It is actually easier to order caths online, I only found one place near Seattle where I could walk in and buy them off the shelf and they don't stock the kind I like. Most medical supply stores I went into where confused by my request to purchase some. The manufactures will be happy to send you enough free samples to figure out which size and style work best for you. There are plenty of options to choose from and I happen to prefer the Coloplast Optima caths to the frequently recommended Rochester Widebands.

sitkadiver wrote: And does foreskin matter? If uncircumsized do you have to pull/push things around before you glue it on?

Well I'm sure that the circumcised guys have an easier time but I don't have any problem. One wants to ensure that their foreskin is fully extended rather than retracted when plumbing up. One can grasp the tip through the distal end of the cath and ensure the adhesive goes along the shaft where it belongs.

LCF wrote:Alcohol won't hurt the valves, and it's not a terribly good disinfectant, so I wouldn't dilute it with water. But following an alcohol rinse with a vinegar rinse is not a bad idea at all, because the Pseudomonas bacteria that have been involved in some of the p-valve UTI cases are not very sensitive to alcohol, but don't tolerate acidic pHs well at all.

I use a p-valve for most multi-dive days, and any time I'm contemplating a dive significantly longer than an hour. I don't bother for most single-dive outings.

Thanks for the information, it is appreciated. I didn't know some strains of bacteria were alcohol resistant. I will start using the vinegar rinse also.

LCF wrote:Alcohol won't hurt the valves, and it's not a terribly good disinfectant, so I wouldn't dilute it with water. But following an alcohol rinse with a vinegar rinse is not a bad idea at all, because the Pseudomonas bacteria that have been involved in some of the p-valve UTI cases are not very sensitive to alcohol, but don't tolerate acidic pHs well at all.

I use a p-valve for most multi-dive days, and any time I'm contemplating a dive significantly longer than an hour. I don't bother for most single-dive outings.

What about a 50/50 vinegar/alcohol solution? Thats what I use for my ears and its seems to do wonders.. (knock on wood) I have yet to get an ear infection..


K

The most common bacteria is Pseudomonas. The acidic pH of vinegar is quite effective, alcohol less so. Mostly that works in the ears by acting as a drying agent.
I have a big 50cc syringe with a bit of latex on the tip. After a dive I run a couple syringes of warm water through the whole apparatus. Then a couple syringes of straight vinegar. I don't flush that out, just let it drain.
A couple times a year I take the whole thing apart, warm water scrub, 50:50 vinegar:water soak for ~ 30 minutes, rinse, dry, reassemble. I do my mouthpiece and insides of my 2nd stage at the same time with the same disinfectant as those grow a whole different set of 'cooties'.

I finished setting up my doubles tonight and will be moving towards longer dives and a P-Valve is the next purchase. On a single tank after 45+ minutes I'm dancing at my safety stop then jumping out of my drysuit. I told myself last year I would buy drygloves and p-valve after doubles... Well dry gloves should be here tomorrow SO....

Thanks Kdupreez and everyone else... That answers most, if not all of my lingering questions.

I'm thinking I will put a releif valve in one of my suit and leave the other original for short dives.

If you get a balanced halcyon p-valve you should probably read this:

http://www.scriptkiddie.org/blog/2011/0 ... -duckbill/

it may save you a smelly leg one dive after you decide that clearly that screw needs to be tightened up a bit...

Or you could just get an unbalanced P-valve. I've been using one for years.

I converted mine from balanced (over complicated and bulky) to unbalanced (simple & effective) a while back and have no regrets and less laundry.

airsix wrote:I converted mine from balanced (over complicated and bulky) to unbalanced (simple & effective) a while back and have no regrets and less laundry.

I've found all the worry about the tube crushing or whatnot to be much ado about nothing. The balancing duckbill is just another place for water (or urine) to leak. Right Koos?