Northwest Dive Club

AquaticEngineer wrote:Where are you guys getting the water tight canisters for housing the batteries in?

The short answer is we build them. Most of us are using plastic pipe (PVC is most common) and fitting them with custom lids and bases made from PVC, acetal, HDPE, etc. Get a copy of this book. It's full of great canister-building information. The battery and bulb info is dated, but the sections on canister building are still valid and as useful as ever.

Here are a couple of shots of my most recent DIY canister. It was made from PVC and shot with a coat of bedliner. The canister has been in service since 2009 but the lid is a newer one I built last summer as an upgrade. The canister base is stepped just like the lid (1 inch recess) and is solvent-welded in place. You can easily knock out a basic canister on a Saturday morning with just hand tools. Even quicker if you have a well equipped workshop.

Ben

Yep, Build em. Hardest part of the whole project. Used to be able to get a good starter can from OMS but they quit making them.

The nice part is that NiMH and especially lithium batteries are now so small that even a mini-lathe (7x12 or 7x14) is more than capable of cranking out canisters and lids. The old lead acid or NiCads used to require serious shop equipment to build.

Thanks guys

I gotta go pick up some clear PVC pipe tomorrow for a slurp gun I'm building so I think I will grab some 2" or 3" schedule 80 pipe, a cap, and a test plug while I'm at the plumbing store and get started on the housing.

Anyone ever go this route with their canister?

I wouldn't go with the test cap, they start to leak after a while.

Nwbrewer wrote:I wouldn't go with the test cap, they start to leak after a while.

+1 on that

You have a hardware store that carries clear PVC pipe? I've seen tubing but not pipe.

Just FYI you do not want to use acrylic pipe or tube which is commonly available clear. Its brittle and will crack easily.

CaptnJack wrote:Just FYI you do not want to use acrylic pipe or tube which is commonly available clear. Its brittle and will crack easily.

I read it as he's going to get some clear for a different project, and some Sched. 80 for the canister.

Nwbrewer wrote:

CaptnJack wrote:Just FYI you do not want to use acrylic pipe or tube which is commonly available clear. Its brittle and will crack easily.

I read it as he's going to get some clear for a different project, and some Sched. 80 for the canister.

I was originally going use clear PVC on my canister and my slurp gun since I didnt want to use acrylic tube.

After calling around and finding the best deal on clear 3" PVC pipe was $102 for an 8 ft section(which is actually a really good price) and that they would only sell the whole piece, I decided I'll probably do everything out of schedule 80 instead since I can get it by the foot.

If my test runs of everthing work the way I want them to I may get the clear PVC later, just for cool factor

Light cans are made of many things.. Abs, pvc, and stuff.. Cans can be built in about an hour.. But then you need 24 hrs for glue to dry

Or machine it from solid Delrin.

Delrin.. Is very expensive

Jeff Pack wrote:Or machine it from solid Delrin.

If you got lots of bucks. That stuff is like gold. Even in 3" ID by 3.5" OD tube your talking 27 bucks a foot
3.5" solid is $50 a ft.

H20doctor wrote:Delrin.. Is very expensive

And standing in front of a lathe while you bore it out at the rate of 0.005" per pass is like watching paint dry.

airsix wrote:

H20doctor wrote:Delrin.. Is very expensive

And standing in front of a lathe while you bore it out at the rate of 0.005" per pass is like watching paint dry.

Dusty2 wrote:

airsix wrote:

H20doctor wrote:Delrin.. Is very expensive

And standing in front of a lathe while you bore it out at the rate of 0.005" per pass is like watching paint dry.

Okay, so teach me how to make deep boring cuts that don't just flex the boring bar!*



*crappy little toy import lathe & boring bar holder that only takes 3/8" shank boring bars.

airsix wrote:

Dusty2 wrote:

airsix wrote:

H20doctor wrote:Delrin.. Is very expensive

And standing in front of a lathe while you bore it out at the rate of 0.005" per pass is like watching paint dry.

Okay, so teach me how to make deep boring cuts that don't just flex the boring bar!*



*crappy little toy import lathe & boring bar holder that only takes 3/8" shank boring bars.

Haha, U answered you own question with the last line!

You need a real lathe not an expensive toy.

But that lathe needs a trained operator.. And skill.. Even a small sears wood lathe needs care and talent to make canisters, and parts which = time .. And for me time is limited.. I give kudos to a lathe person and using a caliper.. But for me its just a hobby and fun building and creating something I built from scratch.. From an idea to a finished product.. Thats cool for me

Dusty2 wrote: Haha, U answered you own question with the last line!

You need a real lathe not an expensive toy.

jet-1340.jpg

Yep. That was my point. Someday the size of my work space, projects and budget might justify serious equipment, but not today.

airsix wrote:

Dusty2 wrote: Haha, U answered you own question with the last line!

You need a real lathe not an expensive toy.

jet-1340.jpg

Yep. That was my point. Someday the size of my work space, projects and budget might justify serious equipment, but not today.

Put the kids to work. Or sell one to Rumplestiltskin.

CaptnJack wrote:Put the kids to work. Or sell one to Rumplestiltskin.

If I could have done that, I'd have a Friggin C&C in my dive locker!

D

Dusty2 wrote:

airsix wrote:

Dusty2 wrote:

airsix wrote:

H20doctor wrote:Delrin.. Is very expensive

And standing in front of a lathe while you bore it out at the rate of 0.005" per pass is like watching paint dry.

Okay, so teach me how to make deep boring cuts that don't just flex the boring bar!*



*crappy little toy import lathe & boring bar holder that only takes 3/8" shank boring bars.

Haha, U answered you own question with the last line!




You need a real lathe not an expensive toy.

jet-1340.jpg

That is my lathe. Jet gear head 13x40.

No mouse lathes in my shop. Have dro's on the x and y axis.

Well built lathe.

Jeff Pack wrote:
That is my lathe. Jet gear head 13x40.

No mouse lathes in my shop. Have dro's on the x and y axis.

Well built lathe.

And you BOUGHT a canlight? WTF?

Machining a can, easy

Building a light head, etc out of my league...