anybody know a good mechanic?

[Grateful Diver]

I just got a call from my local Honda dealership. Dropped my Element in there for some routine service, and asked them to find out why the car's been running rough lately.

Turns out I'm in need of some fairly significant engine work ... they quoted me $3800 for the repair. I'd like to get a second opinion ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

[Joshua Smith]

Don't know if Shoreline is too far North for ya, but the folks at Village Auto do great work, and they're honest.

425-778-0195

[scottsax]

My gf has a mechanic she absolutely loves in Tacoma/University Place. Her family's been taking their Hondas/Acuras there for 15 years. I'm getting his info now, will PM to you. Might be more conveniently located...

[ljjames]

ck automotive on something like 90th and just east of aurora

[scottsax]

Import Specialty Automotive
6211 South Adams Street, Tacoma, WA 98409-2507
(253) 473-2606

[Bric Martin]

Talk with Mike (deiseldude), if he can't do the work he might be able to point you in the right direction.

[lamont]

Budd + Co in the Central District:

http://www.buddandcompany.com/

[Grateful Diver]

Thanks folks ... here's what the diagnostic report says ...

Cylinder #2 compression 65 psi, cylinder #3 compression 105 psi, both low
Cylinder #1 compression 130 psi, cylinder #4 compression 150 psi

Recommend in-frame overhaul, P&L approx $4000
new rings, rod bearing, R&R cylinder head, valve grind, valve guides, seals, pressure test

Guess the first question I gotta answer is whether it's worth it on a car with 142K miles and a fair smattering or rust in the back end

Or do I just put that money toward a different vehicle

I'm not at all a gear head ... in fact, I don't even know what most of that stuff above means.

Whatty'all think? If it was your car, what would you do?

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

[Joshua Smith]

Thanks folks ... here's what the diagnostic report says ...

Cylinder #2 compression 65 psi, cylinder #3 compression 105 psi, both low
Cylinder #1 compression 130 psi, cylinder #4 compression 150 psi

Recommend in-frame overhaul, P&L approx $4000
new rings, rod bearing, R&R cylinder head, valve grind, valve guides, seals, pressure test

Guess the first question I gotta answer is whether it's worth it on a car with 142K miles and a fair smattering or rust in the back end

Or do I just put that money toward a different vehicle

I'm not at all a gear head ... in fact, I don't even know what most of that stuff above means.

Whatty'all think? If it was your car, what would you do?

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

Hmmmm. With 142K, I'd be mighty tempted to look at a new ride. I'm quite sure you could get that work done cheaper somewhere besides the dealership; but you gotta ask yourself how many miles you expect to get out of it in the first place.

[cardiver]

I'd buy a new Subaru, Bob. I can't believe that your Element needs a major overhaul at 140k.........

[Sounder]

Hmmmm. With 142K, I'd be mighty tempted to look at a new ride. I'm quite sure you could get that work done cheaper somewhere besides the dealership; but you gotta ask yourself how many miles you expect to get out of it in the first place.

I'm with Josh... it's time for a new Honda Element, or a new Grateful Diver Tacoma double-cab with a sprayed-in bed liner!!

Seriously dude, ditch that ride before putting the money into it for repair... just take it through the car wash before you take it in for trade.

[ktb]

I'd buy a new Subaru, Bob. I can't believe that your Element needs a major overhaul at 140k.........

A new Subaru . . . I wonder why . . .

Although I didn't realize they had been making the Element long enough for someone to put that many miles on it. Where have you been driving, Bob??

And if you are partial to Hondas, I can highly recommend the Ridgeline.

[cardiver]

I'd buy a new Subaru, Bob. I can't believe that your Element needs a major overhaul at 140k.........

A new Subaru . . . I wonder why . . .

Although I didn't realize they had been making the Element long enough for someone to put that many miles on it. Where have you been driving, Bob??

And if you are partial to Hondas, I can highly recommend the Ridgeline.

You know I love the Ridgeline, Kelly. They are gas PIGS, though.
Seriously though. I take in Subbies all the time with 250-300k on them. Most of them go through our shop with less than 500 spent and we retail them....... With a warranty.

[ktb]

I'd buy a new Subaru, Bob. I can't believe that your Element needs a major overhaul at 140k.........

A new Subaru . . . I wonder why . . .

Although I didn't realize they had been making the Element long enough for someone to put that many miles on it. Where have you been driving, Bob??

And if you are partial to Hondas, I can highly recommend the Ridgeline.

You know I love the Ridgeline, Kelly. They are gas PIGS, though.
Seriously though. I take in Subbies all the time with 250-300k on them. Most of them go through our shop with less than 500 spent and we retail them....... With a warranty.

Ya know, for a full size truck, it's not THAT bad on gas. Of course, both of our other cars take premium fuel, so filling up the truck always seems cheap in comparison.

And I'm used to Hondas getting that kind of life as well, so I'm really wondering about Bob's Element.

[Matt S.]

For a big repair bill like that I would definitely get some second and third opinions. Since I found an independent Subaru shop I like I have avoided the dealer like the plague and have been very pleased with the quality of service I am getting. There must be a similar Honda shop.

If you can get the car running again, reliably, it may be worth doing even if it's expensive. Unless you are dying to make car payments again.

I went through this about a year ago... I spent $3000 to fix a 10 year old car with 70k miles on the clock. But other than the head gasket problem, the car was in great shape and I love driving it. And there aren't any new cars out now that I am crazy about... I'm picky.

So I got the head gasket fixed, and had all the wear items like the timing belt, hoses, water pump, clutch, etc. changed at the same time. Plus a few small performance upgrades. The repair bill hurt, but half of it was money I would have had to spend within a few years anyway on stuff like the clutch... and a new car would have hurt a lot more. My car drives better than new now, and without the crummy poorly designed original head gasket in it, I might not have anything major to do until it's time for a new timing belt in 100k miles or so.

That damn head gasket... Known problem for Subarus of that make. A couple of years difference in model year, either way, and I would have missed the badly designed batch.

I love my car but I sure wish it had more room for dive gear.

[Marc]

Its been a while since I turned a wrench on anything other than a bike, so please do take this with a grain of salt. The lowered compression is a result to worn piston rings.

Have you noticed any blue smoke coming out of the exhaust yet?

Valves being ground sounds a bit suspicious, I would think that if they weren't seating, you would see smoke and feel reduced performance, not just running rough.

Is it running smooth at idle?

I think that there is a genuine problem, but it seems like they are trying to pad their bottom line a bit. I would go to one of the other places that have been suggested or Greg's Japanese auto, I have had good luck with them.

Thanks folks ... here's what the diagnostic report says ...

Cylinder #2 compression 65 psi, cylinder #3 compression 105 psi, both low
Cylinder #1 compression 130 psi, cylinder #4 compression 150 psi

Recommend in-frame overhaul, P&L approx $4000
new rings, rod bearing, R&R cylinder head, valve grind, valve guides, seals, pressure test

Guess the first question I gotta answer is whether it's worth it on a car with 142K miles and a fair smattering or rust in the back end

Or do I just put that money toward a different vehicle

I'm not at all a gear head ... in fact, I don't even know what most of that stuff above means.

Whatty'all think? If it was your car, what would you do?

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

[Grateful Diver]

No blue smoke ... I've actually gotten out and looked while the car was idling.

Definitely reduced performance ... very noticeable. Car stalls when attempting to take off from a stop on a hill. Idle fluctuates while sitting at traffic lights. Difficulty starting ... cranks a few times before turning over.

Today I'm thinking more in favor of getting another car. Gonna give it some more thought over the week-end and make a decision next week. This one's been a gem up till now ... nothing ever needed but oil changes and scheduled maintenance. But this is such a significant problem that I probably won't opt for another Honda ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

[Geek]

Its been a while since I turned a wrench on anything other than a bike, so please do take this with a grain of salt. The lowered compression is a result to worn piston rings.

Have you noticed any blue smoke coming out of the exhaust yet?

Valves being ground sounds a bit suspicious, I would think that if they weren't seating, you would see smoke and feel reduced performance, not just running rough.

Is it running smooth at idle?

I think that there is a genuine problem, but it seems like they are trying to pad their bottom line a bit. I would go to one of the other places that have been suggested or Greg's Japanese auto, I have had good luck with them.

Timing belt will cause lower compression also

[Sounder]

No blue smoke ... I've actually gotten out and looked while the car was idling.

Definitely reduced performance ... very noticeable. Car stalls when attempting to take off from a stop on a hill. Idle fluctuates while sitting at traffic lights. Difficulty starting ... cranks a few times before turning over.

Today I'm thinking more in favor of getting another car. Gonna give it some more thought over the week-end and make a decision next week. This one's been a gem up till now ... nothing ever needed but oil changes and scheduled maintenance. But this is such a significant problem that I probably won't opt for another Honda ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

FWIW, I've had the Sounder-mobile since 1994 and, other than regularly scheduled stuff, have only put $500 into it for a bumper-to-bumper "tighten and tune-up," and that was in 2008. It's ugly as sin (Arizona sun will do that to paint), but it runs like the day I got it. The sprayed-in bed liner is key too - I hose down the tailgate while rinsing gear, and periodically open the tailgate for a good rinse and lubing. 190k later, it's as reliable as ever... except with Toddler Sounder leaves the dome light on for a few days in the driveway (but a battery charger fixed that).

[Jabberjaw]

Bob, another alternative is Greg's Japaneze Auto used to sell imprted engines from Japan with around 30,000 to 40,000 miles on them. The smog restrictions are very tight in Japan. Requireing them to change engines after that many miles. The engine are pretty inexpensive and a mechanic can doo the swap pretty quick. Good Luck.

[rob.laurie]

Thanks folks ... here's what the diagnostic report says ...

Cylinder #2 compression 65 psi, cylinder #3 compression 105 psi, both low
Cylinder #1 compression 130 psi, cylinder #4 compression 150 psi

Recommend in-frame overhaul, P&L approx $4000
new rings, rod bearing, R&R cylinder head, valve grind, valve guides, seals, pressure test

Guess the first question I gotta answer is whether it's worth it on a car with 142K miles and a fair smattering or rust in the back end

Or do I just put that money toward a different vehicle

I'm not at all a gear head ... in fact, I don't even know what most of that stuff above means.

Whatty'all think? If it was your car, what would you do?

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

Hey Bob,
This doesn't sound right. They are trying to cover all bases of compression loss with this list. Ask them to do a leakdown test to pinpoint where the problem is. If its topend (ie valve job/head gasket) it might be worth doing, If its bottom end (ie rings/pistons) you'll probably be better off putting in a used engine or look at replacing your ride. Timing belt can't cause cylinder to cylinder variation like this unless it slipped & bent some valves.

Give me a shout if you need some help, this stuf is what I do for a living.

Cheers,
Rob

[Grateful Diver]

Thanks all ... after thinking about it a coupla days, I think I'd be better off putting my money into a new ride.

I'm thinking Forester ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

[cardiver]

Thanks all ... after thinking about it a coupla days, I think I'd be better off putting my money into a new ride.

I'm thinking Forester ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

I think I know a guy........

[ktb]

Thanks all ... after thinking about it a coupla days, I think I'd be better off putting my money into a new ride.

I'm thinking Forester ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

I think I know a guy........

And he's not your usual swarmy car salesman type . . . most of the time.

[Matt S.]

If you are looking at Subarus, look at the past one or two model years, too. Some (all?) of their cars have... swelled over time. I hear that the Forester and Legacy were more fun to drive before they were fattened up.

I have been thinking about a new car too, maybe not real seriously, but window shopping and planning ahead... I just read about the Volvo V70R, which hits all of my needs.

* AWD
* Fast!
* Manual transmission available
* Wagon format
* Plenty of room for gear, it ain't small

It looks like a family hauler, or if you prefer, a Q-ship.

Never though a Volvo would be on my list of candidates.