One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
- Grateful Diver
- I've Got Gills
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One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Cheng and I just returned from celebrating my 60th birthday in the Maldives. We went with our friends, Jim and Janet, who we've accompanied on similar trips for each of our 60th birthdays.
The Maldives are a tiny island nation about 400 miles southwest of Sir Lanka, near the equator in the Indian Ocean. They consist of nearly 1200 islands, grouped into 26 atolls that cover an area roughly twice the size of Vancouver Island ... 90% of which is water. The islands are mostly tiny and flat ... the highest point in the Maldives is the speedbump in the parking lot at the airport. About 300,000 people live there ... on roughly 200 islands. About 90 of those are resorts, dedicated to tourism, which is the major part of the nation's economy. The rest are either uninhabited or used for agricultural purposes. Nearly a third of the population lives in the capital city of Male ... a very modern island city in the eastern/central part of the archipelago.
The journey to the islands was arduous ... Seattle to San Francisco to Korea to Singapore to Male ... nearly 40 hours to get there and about 45 hours on the return, because we had an additional inter-island flight to get back to Male from the southernmost part of our journey, roughly 250 miles south of the international airport.
On the way over ... as we were waiting for our connection in Singapore airport ... I heard someone calling my name ... "Bob, Bob" ... and looking across the concourse I was amazed to see my friend Dennis Baum. It seems that he and a group from Bubbles Below were not only traveling to the Maldives at the same time, but were booked on the same liveaboard we were. Small world indeed.
Upon arriving in Male, we were greeted by a representative of our host ... Explorer Ventures. We'd be spending the next 11 days on the 125-foot vessel Carpe Vita Explorer, which has only been in operation for about a year and is a beautiful boat to spend a dive vacation on.
The Carpe Vita is a beautiful boat, with spacious lounges, hardwood floors, and accommodations that are more like a hotel room than a cabin. It accommodates a maximum of 20 guests ... we had 19 on this trip ... in quarters that are roomy and comfortable. But it wasn't the boat that made them special ... it was a crew that worked very hard making sure we had a great time. I was very pleased with my choice of vessel for this trip.
Diving is done off a separate, 65-foot tender called a dhoni. When you board, you put all of your dive gear on the dhoni, set it up once, and leave it there for the duration of the trip. The dhoni travels separately from the main boat, and comes alongside only to board and disembark divers, which is a simple process using a two-step ladder.
Once we were set up and settled into our cabins, we did our first ... "check-out" dive just a short distance out from the airport, on a part of the reef that encircles the atoll known as North Male. This was a simple reef dive, and just a taste of what was to come. Then, as we settled down to dinner, the boat left the more populated parts of the country and headed south ... which is what we would do for the next 10 days, doing 33 dievs on 25 dive sites while visiting six atollls and covering more than 300 miles of ocean.
Those lighter areas you see on the map are the atolls. This map only covers the southern half of the Maldives ... there's about an equal number of atolls going north from our starting point. Where you dive depends on the season ... November through April the boats go south, May though October they go north. The direction of the diving is determined by the direction of the prevailing winds.
Each atoll consists of a reef that encloses a deep lagoon several miles in diameter. Ringed around the lagoon are islands, shallow reefs, and deep channels that produce some of the strongest current I've ever dived in. The diving here is varied, depending on whether you're diving a channel, a reef, a wall or a pinnacle. On the next part of my report I'll cover some of the diving ... this report could take a while to complete, as there's a lot to describe.
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
The Maldives are a tiny island nation about 400 miles southwest of Sir Lanka, near the equator in the Indian Ocean. They consist of nearly 1200 islands, grouped into 26 atolls that cover an area roughly twice the size of Vancouver Island ... 90% of which is water. The islands are mostly tiny and flat ... the highest point in the Maldives is the speedbump in the parking lot at the airport. About 300,000 people live there ... on roughly 200 islands. About 90 of those are resorts, dedicated to tourism, which is the major part of the nation's economy. The rest are either uninhabited or used for agricultural purposes. Nearly a third of the population lives in the capital city of Male ... a very modern island city in the eastern/central part of the archipelago.
The journey to the islands was arduous ... Seattle to San Francisco to Korea to Singapore to Male ... nearly 40 hours to get there and about 45 hours on the return, because we had an additional inter-island flight to get back to Male from the southernmost part of our journey, roughly 250 miles south of the international airport.
On the way over ... as we were waiting for our connection in Singapore airport ... I heard someone calling my name ... "Bob, Bob" ... and looking across the concourse I was amazed to see my friend Dennis Baum. It seems that he and a group from Bubbles Below were not only traveling to the Maldives at the same time, but were booked on the same liveaboard we were. Small world indeed.
Upon arriving in Male, we were greeted by a representative of our host ... Explorer Ventures. We'd be spending the next 11 days on the 125-foot vessel Carpe Vita Explorer, which has only been in operation for about a year and is a beautiful boat to spend a dive vacation on.
The Carpe Vita is a beautiful boat, with spacious lounges, hardwood floors, and accommodations that are more like a hotel room than a cabin. It accommodates a maximum of 20 guests ... we had 19 on this trip ... in quarters that are roomy and comfortable. But it wasn't the boat that made them special ... it was a crew that worked very hard making sure we had a great time. I was very pleased with my choice of vessel for this trip.
Diving is done off a separate, 65-foot tender called a dhoni. When you board, you put all of your dive gear on the dhoni, set it up once, and leave it there for the duration of the trip. The dhoni travels separately from the main boat, and comes alongside only to board and disembark divers, which is a simple process using a two-step ladder.
Once we were set up and settled into our cabins, we did our first ... "check-out" dive just a short distance out from the airport, on a part of the reef that encircles the atoll known as North Male. This was a simple reef dive, and just a taste of what was to come. Then, as we settled down to dinner, the boat left the more populated parts of the country and headed south ... which is what we would do for the next 10 days, doing 33 dievs on 25 dive sites while visiting six atollls and covering more than 300 miles of ocean.
Those lighter areas you see on the map are the atolls. This map only covers the southern half of the Maldives ... there's about an equal number of atolls going north from our starting point. Where you dive depends on the season ... November through April the boats go south, May though October they go north. The direction of the diving is determined by the direction of the prevailing winds.
Each atoll consists of a reef that encloses a deep lagoon several miles in diameter. Ringed around the lagoon are islands, shallow reefs, and deep channels that produce some of the strongest current I've ever dived in. The diving here is varied, depending on whether you're diving a channel, a reef, a wall or a pinnacle. On the next part of my report I'll cover some of the diving ... this report could take a while to complete, as there's a lot to describe.
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Threats and ultimatums are never the best answer. Public humiliation via Photoshop is always better - airsix
Come visit me at http://www.nwgratefuldiver.com/
Come visit me at http://www.nwgratefuldiver.com/
- Grateful Diver
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
The typical diving day consisted of four dives ... pre-breakfast, post-breakfast, post-lunch, and pre-dinner. On two occasions we only had three dives, since we had long distances to cover getting to the next atoll. On two other occasions we did dive #4 after dinner as a night dive.
Our first day was spent in North Male atoll, just a few miles south of our arrival point ... two reef dives which I would call moderately interesting, and one dive that consisted of a wreck and a wall. The latter was one of the best dives of the trip, as the wreck ... a 150-foot vessel ... was covered in life, and the wall ... which was only about 50 feet away from the wreck ... was one of the healthiest reefs we saw on the entire trip. To make it even better, it had a 30-foot or so swim-through that took you around a corner of the reef and directly to the wreck.
Some of the North Male marine life ...
The captain was concerned about a weather prediction for a thunderstorm, and so we decided to skip the fourth dive and head to South Ari atoll ... several hours across open water ... where we'd be looking for bigger stuff.
The main attraction in South Ari was a cleaning station where one can frequently find manta rays and a long, shallow reef where whale sharks are sometimes sighted. We did the former dive three times over the next two days ... only sighting manta rays on the third attempt. We also did a couple of pinnacle dives and visited the second of the two wrecks we saw on this trip. In between dives we'd take our fins, mask and snorkel back to the big boat and cruise along the shallow reef looking for the flat water that indicated the presense of a whale shark. Over the two-days we were at South Ari, we found two whale sharks.
Some comments about the diving at Ari ... this area is close enough to the major population center to be very popular with day boats ... and as such when something special is sighted it gets very crowded very quickly. We did three dives on the cleaning station, and it was very crowded ... not to mention that there was very obvious and devastating damage to the reef due to overuse by divers. The one time we found mantas, within minutes it was literally raining divers ... many of whom clearly had no clue how to dive. They were landing on people, kicking and breaking corals, smacking and kicking each other with flailing arms and legs. And perhaps in an attempt to control this chaos, the dive guides were frantically trying to get everyone to hold onto something on the bottom. It was a mess ... more than 100 divers in a very small area ... all vying to watch a half-dozen mantas at a cleaning station. I've had more personal space in the cheap seats at a Grateful Dead concert. Trying to get a picture was an exercise in frustration, as virtually all of them had either someone's fins, hands, or bubbles in the way. I did manage ... with some careful editing ... to get one decent shot.
Besides the mantas, there were other interesting inhabitants of these reefs ...
But the disappointing thing was how trashed and dead a lot of them were. One of the striking things about the Maldives was how variable the health of the reefs were ... in some places they were vibrant and beautiful, and in others it was basically rocks and dead coral. But even in those latter areas one could find an abundance of reef fish, turtles and other critters.
During one of these dives ... on a double-pinnacle ... we were separated into three groups. Ours was the first group crossing the channel between pinnacles, and were delighted to spot four reef sharks in the distance. However, our delight turned to disappointment when we surfaced to discover that the groups behind us had a whale shark encounter in the channel we had just crossed ... apparently it swam through just behind us, and the other two groups got to swim with it for several minutes. Since a whale shark experience was one of my main goals on this trip, I was extremely disappointed at the bad timing ... but the trouble with animal encounters is that you can't really plan them ... they happen when they happen.
And my time would come. On our second day at Ari, during one of our surface intervals, the bell sounded ... indicating a whale shark sighting. We all hurried to the back of the boat, got into our mask, fins, and snorkel, and headed out in the small tender a few at a time to be dropped over the animal, which was swimming just below us in about 30 feet of water. This particular whale shark was a juvenile ... maybe 20 feet long. I was fortunate enough to be able to dive down and get a couple quick pictures before several other boats in the area arrived ... dumping more than a hundred other snorkelers in the same tiny space. At that point I decided I was done, and headed to the dhoni, which was waiting about a hundred yards away waiting to pick us up. I'd taken only three shots ... fortunately, two of them were decent ...
Eventually the whale shark outpaced all the people frantically swimming after it ... and everyone headed back to the dhoni. Before we could even make it back to the main boat, a second whale shark was sighted ... this one slightly larger than the first. Once again we all dropped into the water, snorkeled over it, and a few freedived down for a better look. Once again I took three pictures ... with one "keeper" ...
At that point, I was one incredibly happy camper ... whatever else happened on this trip, I''d gotten what I came here for, and the trip was a success ... and we still had seven days of diving to go.
That evening we topped off our day with an easy night dive on a pinnacle. This was typical reef diving, with very healthy corals and abundant life. A word about the corals in this part of the archipelago ... they're mostly hard corals ... very little of the soft corals and color that you see further south, or in other tropical locales. Still, the life it harbors is abundant and interesting ...
The next morning we did one dive on nearby Vaayu atoll. At Vaayu we dived a lovely reef where I saw my first soft corals of the trip. It's worth mentioning that up to this point, vis was rather disappointing at 30-50 feet due to heavy plankton. Of course, that's what brought in the mantas and whale sharks ... so I can't really complain. But at Vaayu we got the 75-100 foot vis we'd been hoping for on this trip, and some beautiful reef scenery.
After our early dive, we headed south for a different kind of diving ... I'll describe that in my next installment ...
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Our first day was spent in North Male atoll, just a few miles south of our arrival point ... two reef dives which I would call moderately interesting, and one dive that consisted of a wreck and a wall. The latter was one of the best dives of the trip, as the wreck ... a 150-foot vessel ... was covered in life, and the wall ... which was only about 50 feet away from the wreck ... was one of the healthiest reefs we saw on the entire trip. To make it even better, it had a 30-foot or so swim-through that took you around a corner of the reef and directly to the wreck.
Some of the North Male marine life ...
The captain was concerned about a weather prediction for a thunderstorm, and so we decided to skip the fourth dive and head to South Ari atoll ... several hours across open water ... where we'd be looking for bigger stuff.
The main attraction in South Ari was a cleaning station where one can frequently find manta rays and a long, shallow reef where whale sharks are sometimes sighted. We did the former dive three times over the next two days ... only sighting manta rays on the third attempt. We also did a couple of pinnacle dives and visited the second of the two wrecks we saw on this trip. In between dives we'd take our fins, mask and snorkel back to the big boat and cruise along the shallow reef looking for the flat water that indicated the presense of a whale shark. Over the two-days we were at South Ari, we found two whale sharks.
Some comments about the diving at Ari ... this area is close enough to the major population center to be very popular with day boats ... and as such when something special is sighted it gets very crowded very quickly. We did three dives on the cleaning station, and it was very crowded ... not to mention that there was very obvious and devastating damage to the reef due to overuse by divers. The one time we found mantas, within minutes it was literally raining divers ... many of whom clearly had no clue how to dive. They were landing on people, kicking and breaking corals, smacking and kicking each other with flailing arms and legs. And perhaps in an attempt to control this chaos, the dive guides were frantically trying to get everyone to hold onto something on the bottom. It was a mess ... more than 100 divers in a very small area ... all vying to watch a half-dozen mantas at a cleaning station. I've had more personal space in the cheap seats at a Grateful Dead concert. Trying to get a picture was an exercise in frustration, as virtually all of them had either someone's fins, hands, or bubbles in the way. I did manage ... with some careful editing ... to get one decent shot.
Besides the mantas, there were other interesting inhabitants of these reefs ...
But the disappointing thing was how trashed and dead a lot of them were. One of the striking things about the Maldives was how variable the health of the reefs were ... in some places they were vibrant and beautiful, and in others it was basically rocks and dead coral. But even in those latter areas one could find an abundance of reef fish, turtles and other critters.
During one of these dives ... on a double-pinnacle ... we were separated into three groups. Ours was the first group crossing the channel between pinnacles, and were delighted to spot four reef sharks in the distance. However, our delight turned to disappointment when we surfaced to discover that the groups behind us had a whale shark encounter in the channel we had just crossed ... apparently it swam through just behind us, and the other two groups got to swim with it for several minutes. Since a whale shark experience was one of my main goals on this trip, I was extremely disappointed at the bad timing ... but the trouble with animal encounters is that you can't really plan them ... they happen when they happen.
And my time would come. On our second day at Ari, during one of our surface intervals, the bell sounded ... indicating a whale shark sighting. We all hurried to the back of the boat, got into our mask, fins, and snorkel, and headed out in the small tender a few at a time to be dropped over the animal, which was swimming just below us in about 30 feet of water. This particular whale shark was a juvenile ... maybe 20 feet long. I was fortunate enough to be able to dive down and get a couple quick pictures before several other boats in the area arrived ... dumping more than a hundred other snorkelers in the same tiny space. At that point I decided I was done, and headed to the dhoni, which was waiting about a hundred yards away waiting to pick us up. I'd taken only three shots ... fortunately, two of them were decent ...
Eventually the whale shark outpaced all the people frantically swimming after it ... and everyone headed back to the dhoni. Before we could even make it back to the main boat, a second whale shark was sighted ... this one slightly larger than the first. Once again we all dropped into the water, snorkeled over it, and a few freedived down for a better look. Once again I took three pictures ... with one "keeper" ...
At that point, I was one incredibly happy camper ... whatever else happened on this trip, I''d gotten what I came here for, and the trip was a success ... and we still had seven days of diving to go.
That evening we topped off our day with an easy night dive on a pinnacle. This was typical reef diving, with very healthy corals and abundant life. A word about the corals in this part of the archipelago ... they're mostly hard corals ... very little of the soft corals and color that you see further south, or in other tropical locales. Still, the life it harbors is abundant and interesting ...
The next morning we did one dive on nearby Vaayu atoll. At Vaayu we dived a lovely reef where I saw my first soft corals of the trip. It's worth mentioning that up to this point, vis was rather disappointing at 30-50 feet due to heavy plankton. Of course, that's what brought in the mantas and whale sharks ... so I can't really complain. But at Vaayu we got the 75-100 foot vis we'd been hoping for on this trip, and some beautiful reef scenery.
After our early dive, we headed south for a different kind of diving ... I'll describe that in my next installment ...
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Threats and ultimatums are never the best answer. Public humiliation via Photoshop is always better - airsix
Come visit me at http://www.nwgratefuldiver.com/
Come visit me at http://www.nwgratefuldiver.com/
- dphershman
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- Grateful Diver
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
The next three days of our trip were spent at Meemu and Thaa atolls ... doing mostly channel dives. Channels are deep cuts in the reef that encircles the atoll ... allowing water exchange between the lagoon and the open ocean during tidal exchanges. For these dives, we were issued reef hooks ... a metal hook on a piece of heavy cave line that you tie to your BCD. You drop in on the outside of the reef and drift toward the "corner" ... basically the entrance to the channel ... where you hook yourself to a rock and wait for passing sharks, eagle rays, tuna, or whatever other pelagics happen by. This diving is strenuous, and generally you're diving in 75-95 feet of water which makes for a relatively short dive on an AL80.
Prior to the dive, one of the guides would freedive down to the channel to test the current, which determined what side of the reef we'd drop in on. Current was measured in four categories ...
Mild - a nice, relaxing drift dive where it's possible to take a picture of something without hooking in first.
Medium - life speeds up ... if you see something you want a picture of, grab ahold of a rock or hook in to hold yourself in position.
Strong - life in the fast lane ... don't try holding on, just use the damn hook ... and if you look up the wrong way, your mask will flood and your regulator will freeflow. Hang on tight to your camera, or the current gods may decide it's theirs.
Oh My God! - don't even think about it ... the guides won't let you dive there.
On one of the strong current dives, I flooded my camera. Fortunately, I had brought a second camera, so after the dive I cleaned up the housing and put the spare camera in it. A few dives later, I flooded it too ... fortunately I caught it in time to save the camera. I didn't get a whole lot of good pictures on these dives, because the current was so strong, and the critters we were looking for never really got that close ... close enough to see well, but rarely close enough to make for a good photo. But I saw many sharks, flights of eagle rays, napoleon wrasse, tuna, and other types of fish I couldn't identify.
Here's a shot I took on a "medium current" dive ...
And a few of the reasonable shots I was able to salvage ...
This one was very blue, and somewhat out of focus ... so I played around with turning it into a B&W. Not a particularly good shot, but I like the result anyway ...
One morning we got up early and did something a little different ... dropping into the deep blue, with the bottom several hundreds of feet below us ... drifting along in a search pattern looking for hammerheads. I saw one swimming perhaps 30-40 feet below us at one point, but not close enough to be worth attempting a picture. But the dive itself was magical ... swimming in a vast nothingness, looking down into the abyss. Being an early morning dive the lighting made for a twilight kind of experience. There was a lovely flourescent-blue type of plankton in the water, and looking down into the darkness made it appear like we were gazing at stars from the other side ... it was a wonderful way to start the day ...
Upon returning to the boat we discovered that the crew had been fishing while we were down ... they'd caught the evening's dinner ... fresh sashimi ...
Our final dives were mostly reef and shallower channel dives on Laamu atoll ... the furthest south we went, and very near the equator. These were my favorite dives of the trip, with beautiful reefs, colorful corals, shallow channels, and relatively mild current. Vis was a consistent 70-100 feet on these dives, which is the best we got on the trip. Because we weren't going as deep or struggling with strong current, these were also generally longer dives than we'd been doing previously. My kinda diving ... relaxin' and enjoying the color ...
My final installment will be describing some of the non-diving activities that took place ... but it's time to get ready for work. I'll post it later today ...
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Prior to the dive, one of the guides would freedive down to the channel to test the current, which determined what side of the reef we'd drop in on. Current was measured in four categories ...
Mild - a nice, relaxing drift dive where it's possible to take a picture of something without hooking in first.
Medium - life speeds up ... if you see something you want a picture of, grab ahold of a rock or hook in to hold yourself in position.
Strong - life in the fast lane ... don't try holding on, just use the damn hook ... and if you look up the wrong way, your mask will flood and your regulator will freeflow. Hang on tight to your camera, or the current gods may decide it's theirs.
Oh My God! - don't even think about it ... the guides won't let you dive there.
On one of the strong current dives, I flooded my camera. Fortunately, I had brought a second camera, so after the dive I cleaned up the housing and put the spare camera in it. A few dives later, I flooded it too ... fortunately I caught it in time to save the camera. I didn't get a whole lot of good pictures on these dives, because the current was so strong, and the critters we were looking for never really got that close ... close enough to see well, but rarely close enough to make for a good photo. But I saw many sharks, flights of eagle rays, napoleon wrasse, tuna, and other types of fish I couldn't identify.
Here's a shot I took on a "medium current" dive ...
And a few of the reasonable shots I was able to salvage ...
This one was very blue, and somewhat out of focus ... so I played around with turning it into a B&W. Not a particularly good shot, but I like the result anyway ...
One morning we got up early and did something a little different ... dropping into the deep blue, with the bottom several hundreds of feet below us ... drifting along in a search pattern looking for hammerheads. I saw one swimming perhaps 30-40 feet below us at one point, but not close enough to be worth attempting a picture. But the dive itself was magical ... swimming in a vast nothingness, looking down into the abyss. Being an early morning dive the lighting made for a twilight kind of experience. There was a lovely flourescent-blue type of plankton in the water, and looking down into the darkness made it appear like we were gazing at stars from the other side ... it was a wonderful way to start the day ...
Upon returning to the boat we discovered that the crew had been fishing while we were down ... they'd caught the evening's dinner ... fresh sashimi ...
Our final dives were mostly reef and shallower channel dives on Laamu atoll ... the furthest south we went, and very near the equator. These were my favorite dives of the trip, with beautiful reefs, colorful corals, shallow channels, and relatively mild current. Vis was a consistent 70-100 feet on these dives, which is the best we got on the trip. Because we weren't going as deep or struggling with strong current, these were also generally longer dives than we'd been doing previously. My kinda diving ... relaxin' and enjoying the color ...
My final installment will be describing some of the non-diving activities that took place ... but it's time to get ready for work. I'll post it later today ...
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Threats and ultimatums are never the best answer. Public humiliation via Photoshop is always better - airsix
Come visit me at http://www.nwgratefuldiver.com/
Come visit me at http://www.nwgratefuldiver.com/
- Penopolypants
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Soooo jealous of the whale shark encounters! And all of the encounters, really!
Happy belated birthday, and welcome back!
Happy belated birthday, and welcome back!
Come to the nerd side, we have pi!
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Great report and beautiful pictures ! Now that is a way to celebrate! Happy birthday Bob.
http://JanKocian.smugmug.com
I take photos because I like it, not because I'm good at it. by Unknown
I take photos because I like it, not because I'm good at it. by Unknown
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Besides the diving, topside was pretty memorable as well. Weather was just about perfect, with gorgeous sunrises and sunsets, mostly calm seas, temps in the low to mid 80's and relatively low humidity. There was usually just enough breeze to pleasantly keep things comfortable.
There's a lot of dolphins in the Maldives. Although we didn't see any underwater, we heard them on several dives ... and saw them frequently on the surface. Sometimes when we were travelling, they'd come to play in our bow wake.
As I mentioned earlier, nearly 1,000 of the Maldivian islands are uninhabited. One particular evening we had a beach BBQ on one of them. While we were out diving, the boat crew were busy bringing chairs, tables, and other accoutrements ashore using the small tender. We were shuttled over six at a time, and greeted with a whale shark made of beach sand and the darker soil found beneath the palm trees ...
We'd timed this trip just about perfectly for the event ... dining that night on a deserted beach, beneath the light of a full moon, candles and the glow of a beach fire. It was a great time.
The following day was my birthday, and the cook made me a birthday cake.
Evening celebrations that night went a little later than usual, as the next day we'd only be doing two dives in preparation for our departure early the following morning. After lunch on our final day on the boat, we set out for a tour of a local island village. This is also when we found out that while we were out on our 10-day tour, the country's president had been deposed. This concerned us a bit, since we'd be flying back to Male early the following morning, and would be spending 15 hours waiting for our flight out ... which we had hoped to use to tour the city. But on arrival back at the international airport, we were told that all was quiet, and that it was OK to go into the city ... which is a separate island from the airport, about 10 minutes away by ferry. Seven of us opted to go for the tour and had a great time. The city itself literally covers every square foot of the island ... with sea walls and jetties making an abrupt distinction between where the city ends and the sea begins. It's a curious mixture of ultra-modern and centuries-old traditional, with high-rise office buildings, state of the art government facilities, and mosques that were built several centuries ago. We saw no sign of the unrest that had rocked the city for the previous days ... and even the previous evening. The streets were crowded with people going about the business of life. The markets were doing a marvelous business, and the people within them were genuinely friendly to a group of obvious western tourists. We were offered free samples of local products to try (and hopefully buy). People were happy to pose for pictures, and talk to us. Overall it was a wonderful experience.
This picture pretty well sums up my impression of the Maldivian people ... a very young nation struggling to find its way into the modern world.
Farewell my new friends ... and may your tiny nation be blessed with peace and prosperity ...
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
There's a lot of dolphins in the Maldives. Although we didn't see any underwater, we heard them on several dives ... and saw them frequently on the surface. Sometimes when we were travelling, they'd come to play in our bow wake.
As I mentioned earlier, nearly 1,000 of the Maldivian islands are uninhabited. One particular evening we had a beach BBQ on one of them. While we were out diving, the boat crew were busy bringing chairs, tables, and other accoutrements ashore using the small tender. We were shuttled over six at a time, and greeted with a whale shark made of beach sand and the darker soil found beneath the palm trees ...
We'd timed this trip just about perfectly for the event ... dining that night on a deserted beach, beneath the light of a full moon, candles and the glow of a beach fire. It was a great time.
The following day was my birthday, and the cook made me a birthday cake.
Evening celebrations that night went a little later than usual, as the next day we'd only be doing two dives in preparation for our departure early the following morning. After lunch on our final day on the boat, we set out for a tour of a local island village. This is also when we found out that while we were out on our 10-day tour, the country's president had been deposed. This concerned us a bit, since we'd be flying back to Male early the following morning, and would be spending 15 hours waiting for our flight out ... which we had hoped to use to tour the city. But on arrival back at the international airport, we were told that all was quiet, and that it was OK to go into the city ... which is a separate island from the airport, about 10 minutes away by ferry. Seven of us opted to go for the tour and had a great time. The city itself literally covers every square foot of the island ... with sea walls and jetties making an abrupt distinction between where the city ends and the sea begins. It's a curious mixture of ultra-modern and centuries-old traditional, with high-rise office buildings, state of the art government facilities, and mosques that were built several centuries ago. We saw no sign of the unrest that had rocked the city for the previous days ... and even the previous evening. The streets were crowded with people going about the business of life. The markets were doing a marvelous business, and the people within them were genuinely friendly to a group of obvious western tourists. We were offered free samples of local products to try (and hopefully buy). People were happy to pose for pictures, and talk to us. Overall it was a wonderful experience.
This picture pretty well sums up my impression of the Maldivian people ... a very young nation struggling to find its way into the modern world.
Farewell my new friends ... and may your tiny nation be blessed with peace and prosperity ...
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Threats and ultimatums are never the best answer. Public humiliation via Photoshop is always better - airsix
Come visit me at http://www.nwgratefuldiver.com/
Come visit me at http://www.nwgratefuldiver.com/
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Wow, what an epic way to celebrate a landmark birthday! Great report and terrific pictures, Bob. Welcome back, but if I were you, I'd probably rather still be in the Maldives....
- enchantmentdivi
- Amphibian
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Great trip report, Bob! And awesome pics!!
The travel time sounds absolutely daunting to me. I've heard rumors that the new non-stop Emirates Seattle to Dubai makes it easier getting there. Anybody know if there's any truth to that?
The travel time sounds absolutely daunting to me. I've heard rumors that the new non-stop Emirates Seattle to Dubai makes it easier getting there. Anybody know if there's any truth to that?
Jenn
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Bob, I loved the fuller report! And I'm glad you got a whale shark sighting, even if I'm also jealous. Thank you for taking the time to write all this up!
"Sometimes, when your world is going sideways, the second best thing to everything working out right, is knowing you are loved..." ljjames
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Now THAT is a trip report. Thanks for writing that up Bob!
"Screw "annual" service,... I get them serviced when they break." - CaptnJack (paraphrased)
"you do realize you're supposed to mix the with water and drink it, not snort the powder directly from the packet, right? " - Spatman
"you do realize you're supposed to mix the with water and drink it, not snort the powder directly from the packet, right? " - Spatman
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Only two things to say: "Happy Birthday" and "Wow...."
Jim
Jim
<Penopolypants> "I, for one, would welcome our new cowboy octopus overlords."
<LCF> "There is ALWAYS another day to dive, as long as you get home today."
<LCF> "There is ALWAYS another day to dive, as long as you get home today."
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Wow... awesome stuff Bob. Your photos are spectacular
Did Lightroom behave itself?
Scott
Did Lightroom behave itself?
Scott
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- Aquaphile
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
SPEECHLESS !! Thanks for sharing. And I thought I had the Bucket List done. Now I'm thinking Maldives over Thailand.
Now to go read your report again !
Now to go read your report again !
“From birth, man carries the weight of gravity on his shoulders. He is bolted to earth. But man has only to sink beneath the surface and he is free.”
- Grateful Diver
- I've Got Gills
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
All the photo editing was done using Lightroom ... I never even opened Photoshop on this trip.lundysd wrote:Wow... awesome stuff Bob. Your photos are spectacular
Did Lightroom behave itself?
Scott
Nice program ... glad I took the class before I left ...
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Threats and ultimatums are never the best answer. Public humiliation via Photoshop is always better - airsix
Come visit me at http://www.nwgratefuldiver.com/
Come visit me at http://www.nwgratefuldiver.com/
- Joshua Smith
- I've Got Gills
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Freaking amazing report, and pics! I'm taking a quick lunch break, staring at my stupid phone while I try and eat. I can't wait to see these on a real monitor!
Maritime Documentation Society
"To venture into the terrible loneliness, one must have something greater than greed. Love. One needs love for life, for intrigue, for mystery."
"To venture into the terrible loneliness, one must have something greater than greed. Love. One needs love for life, for intrigue, for mystery."
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Fantastic report, Bob! Glad you had a memorable trip.
"The place looked like a washing machine full of Josh's carharts. I was not into it." --Sockmonkey
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Totally amazing.
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Welcome back Bob & Cheng! We made sure to save some nice mid 40's water for you! Great trip report and pics- look forward to seeing more.
Dive by Shooting!!
Kathy
Kathy
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Bob: A belated happy birthday. I celebrated mine while you were gone with a dive at Mukilteo. No complaints. I was with wonderful people. Since the Maldives are probably never going to happen with me, I enjoy your reports immensly. Keep'em coming youngster.
-Curt
-Curt
Happy to be alive.
- ArcticDiver
- I've Got Gills
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
On my trips I've dived with people who raved about the Maldives. But, these are the first pictures. Thank you so much for your images and especially the story.
AND, Happy Birthday. My wish for you is that your life changes as much after your birthday as mine did.
AND, Happy Birthday. My wish for you is that your life changes as much after your birthday as mine did.
The only box you have to think outside of is the one you build around yourself.
Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
The only thing one can say is WOW!!! Glad you had such a good time.
- coach_izzy
- Avid Diver
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
What a way to celebrate your birthday Bob. Another year of diving excellence. Thank you for sharing the awesomeness!
- Scubie Doo
- I've Got Gills
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Amazing write-up! Thanks for the details and the photos. I am interesting in a live aboard, so this was great to read.
- MorningDiverBob
- Dive-aholic
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Re: One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish ...
Wow ! Great report and photos. Glad both of you had a great time dives. Whale Shark on my list. Belated Happy Birthday.
Go Dive and Dive Safe