Northwest Dive Club

What are you all using in the way of computers? I have no idea about these. The last time I was in class I had oil filled depth gauges, and tank pressure gauges, too. I really love navigation, and would like some information about compass integration as well. Thanks in advance.

I am very happy with my wrist mount computer and brass and glass SPG. I use a Oceanic VEO 180, it's simple and the numbers are large enough for my old eyes.

I've been using Hollis DG03 from DGX and it works quite well. Everything is automatic in the water and you can easily set alarms for various things with the option of adding air integrated if you desire. I recently got the usb cable and quite enjoy all the detail it gives me after the fact. The compass I have is pretty bad and hard to read... so I would recommend against the basic $22 one on DGX (It was a gift...).

Due to the buddies i got started with early, i was turned onto using a basic bottom timer with B/G spg and compass. (UTD/GUE style) and have to say i really like it. don't have much to compare with though, and it requires a better knowledge of your tables vs relying on your computer. If you go that route, the Liquivision products are awesome, OLED displays rock. I've also seen some info on Xdeep's new competitor that looks to be a bit lower price for a very cool product as well.

After owning several computers, my advise is to go simple and cheap. As a recreational diver, you need your computer to tell you three things; depth, dive time, and no deco time remaining. Everything else is a bells-and-whistles thing that you probably don't need.

If I was shopping for a computer, here's the criteria I'd look for:
Large display
Nitrox compatible
User changeable battery -(You want to be able to get a replacement battery from a drug store)
Under $300

The VEO that Linedog mentioned above fits the bill - The Suunto Zoop is another option.

As for the electronic compass, I've never seen one that actually works.

I use the ScubaPro Galileo Luna. I absolutely love it because it is easy to use, air integrated (I still have an analog SPG) the dives are downloadable to my PC, and it has full customization (display and the conservatism of the algorithm).

My son uses a Air Z Nitrox but as soon as I can get approval I will upgrade him to the Luna.

That's my 2 psi.

edit: Oh it also has a user changeable battery.

+1 on the three points Billz illustrates. Those are really what matter. Anything else is extra fluff. And while fluff is nice, make sure under the fluff you have those three requirements met!
I have used an Aeris Atmos AI Integrated computer with quick disconnect for about 11 years. It has a nice big display, easy to change both EAN settings and battery. It has other features as well, but I cant say I actually utilize them much.

I carry 2.
Zoop (console) and Vyper Air 2 (wrist)

Hi with my limited experience I am very happy with the zoop cheap works every time and has more functions then I know what to do with and did I mention cheap

I have the oceanic Veo 2.0 It works fine for abs was less than 200 on Craigslist. I got the USB Sync cable and now download all my dives then sink them to my phone. It's nice to have the log both on my laptop and phone. I'd like a little bigger display but this one is fine. My compass is on a retractable cord as I just could not ever read it from my wrist. Now I look down on it and it's way better for me..... I got that one on Amazonm

Depends on how old you are. If you are in the bifocal age range, go for an OLED display and just cringe and pay the extra. Believe me, it is worth it!

I have yet to use a digital compass that I think is worth anything at all. I'll stick with the simple wrist compass. And as much as I love the tilt-tolerance of the SK-7, we've had so many go south on us that we're using the Uwatec ones now.

+1 for the OLED displays. I use a Liquivion Kaon computer backed up by a Xen timer / depth gauge. Brass & glass SPG - simple, reliable and not bulky.

LCF wrote:Depends on how old you are. If you are in the bifocal age range, go for an OLED display and just cringe and pay the extra. Believe me, it is worth it!

I have yet to use a digital compass that I think is worth anything at all. I'll stick with the simple wrist compass. And as much as I love the tilt-tolerance of the SK-7, we've had so many go south on us that we're using the Uwatec ones now.

I was looking at a tilt compass in a console. When you say the SK-7 goes south, they just stop working? Or the tilt ability is not good?

seattlepaul1975 wrote:I carry 2.
Zoop (console) and Vyper Air 2 (wrist)

Ok, I am wondering how this works, because isn't there only one high pressure connection on the primary?

RenaB wrote: I was looking at a tilt compass in a console. When you say the SK-7 goes south, they just stop working? Or the tilt ability is not good?

The tilt is great. The oil inside has issues and they leak over time which creates a bubble. At depth the bubble compresses and they bind and don't work at all. Then you have to toss them. They can last years and years or just a few months. Seems to be a function of their materials more than design.

RenaB wrote:

seattlepaul1975 wrote:I carry 2.
Zoop (console) and Vyper Air 2 (wrist)

Ok, I am wondering how this works, because isn't there only one high pressure connection on the primary?

There are 2 HP ports on most modern regs.

As far as SK7's go, I've mentioned this before, but they can usually be fixed, If somebody has one laying around with a bubble that they want to send me I'll fix it and take pictures of how to do it this time so I can post it. I wasn't sure it was gonna work when I did mine, so no pics.

Jake

Nwbrewer wrote:

RenaB wrote:

seattlepaul1975 wrote:I carry 2.
Zoop (console) and Vyper Air 2 (wrist)

Ok, I am wondering how this works, because isn't there only one high pressure connection on the primary?

There are 2 HP ports on most modern regs.

As far as SK7's go, I've mentioned this before, but they can usually be fixed, If somebody has one laying around with a bubble that they want to send me I'll fix it and take pictures of how to do it this time so I can post it. I wasn't sure it was gonna work when I did mine, so no pics.

Jake

Yup 2 HP ports.

So, I found an Oceanic VEO 2.0 Navcon. It's in a console. I just like everything in a console (I think). The one I found has 18 dives on it (apparently) and they want $279. What do you guys think? I know this is likely to cause controversey or a fight But could you give me your honest opinion(s). Thanks

Anybody know what the difference is between the VEO 100 to 250 series VS the 1.0 to 3.0 series? I've been using the 180's and 250's and you can buy them for less than $200 in a console.

My next computer is going to be a shearwater...

Desert Diver wrote:Anybody know what the difference is between the VEO 100 to 250 series VS the 1.0 to 3.0 series? I've been using the 180's and 250's and you can buy them for less than $200 in a console.

I was actually looking for this information. When I looked it seems the difference between the 1.0 and at least the two is computer integration ability. It appears that the 1.0 doesn't have this ability.

RenaB wrote:

Desert Diver wrote:Anybody know what the difference is between the VEO 100 to 250 series VS the 1.0 to 3.0 series? I've been using the 180's and 250's and you can buy them for less than $200 in a console.

I was actually looking for this information. When I looked it seems the difference between the 1.0 and at least the two is computer integration ability. It appears that the 1.0 doesn't have this ability.

And that is the difference between the Veo 100 and the Veo 180. The 250 has 2 buttons making it a little easier to control and set up,

Desert Diver wrote:Anybody know what the difference is between the VEO 100 to 250 series VS the 1.0 to 3.0 series? I've been using the 180's and 250's and you can buy them for less than $200 in a console.

The x.0 series replaced the xxx series. They all should be reliable computers. The 100 has no nitrox or backlight though as far as I can tell. The 250 appears to be the same as the Hollis DG02 which I think is still sold new.

The Veo 100's I've seen have nitrox. The 180 and 250 have the ability to set a nitrox level and leave it between dives which the older Oceanic pucks couldn't do. Oceanic really screwed up the battery changing when they went from the Prodigy/DataMax series to the Veo 1XX series. The older ones had a coin slot and were easy. The newer ones require a special tool and a bunch of dexterity and strength. Not an upgrade. I've been using the Oceanic pucks since the early 90's and they have sure been reliable and easy to use.

I have the Oceanic Proplus V2.0 and so far I am happy with it. It comes in a console which you can attach a compass to the end. They now have the Proplus V3.0 and I think with it you CAN adjust setting once you have dropped on a dive. The V2.0 you cannot so IF you forget to change the Nitrox settings before you drop you stuck. I have a retractable Suunto SK7 that for now I have had no issues with, BUT I have crushed a couple.

dare I mention the words UEMIS and I still have my functioning UEMIS. If you know anything about the company and its history there have been issues with batteries which are NOT user changeable. However, if you wish to try it out to see what a bright LED display looks like while diving, I would be more then happy to let you try it out. I am usually one of the south sound thursday divers.